wilwood brakes advice - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

**GregWeld** · #11 04-25-2011, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killer69

Greg i am SURE it is more good luck than good management!!! as i do know that alot of the time they do not work all that well.
but feel free to come by any time.

Blake! I'd have to get a passport for that!

ht turbo monaro · #12 04-26-2011, 10:27 PM

Thanks greg for that info much appreciated

thanks guys

gearheadgarage · #13 05-09-2011, 11:49 PM

I have great success w/ Wilwood e-brake holding power. We almost always use the factory intermediate cable to pull the Wilwood cables as if they were stock- this seems to be stronger & work better. Also, it is important that you ajust the e-brake shoes/drums correctly to endure proper grab- I can't stress how important this step is (but often overlooked).

wmhjr · #14 05-10-2011, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearheadgarage

I have great success w/ Wilwood e-brake holding power. We almost always use the factory intermediate cable to pull the Wilwood cables as if they were stock- this seems to be stronger & work better. Also, it is important that you ajust the e-brake shoes/drums correctly to endure proper grab- I can't stress how important this step is (but often overlooked).

You're using the factory e-brake pedal? One thing that seems constant is that if you're using a "hand operated" brake lever, I have yet to meet somebody who has had good luck in that regard. BTW, I've already spent time trying to adjust the parking brake on the inside of the rear units. Not much fun and frankly not very successful thus far.

Wilwood Tech · #15 05-11-2011, 11:09 AM

There are several factors that can erode parking brake performance. One of the most critical procedures during installation is the the routing of the parking brake cables. To ensure maximum performance from your parking brake system, the cables must be routed as straight as possible. Bends in the cable can significantly reduce efficiency and thus reduce pull force at the brake. Tight bends must be avoided with a minimum recommended bend radius of 6" to 8".
Cables should be properly restrained to prevent "straightening" of bends when tension is applied. Restrain movement of cable by affixing the cable sheath to body or chassis by fitting cable clamps at various points over the length of cable or by using original equipment cable attachments points. The clamping method chosen will require that cable sheath be held tightly without movement, crushing or causing interference to the internal cable.
Cables must be initially pre-stretched by multiple applications of the brake handle, then re-adjusted to correct tension.
Finally, if you inadvertantly drive with your parking brake on, you can glaze your shoes, which will affect their ability to hold. I hope this information is helpful.

Ken H

**GregWeld** · #16 05-11-2011, 10:25 PM

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Fantastically helpful! Thanks for posting all those great tips and instructions!

Guess I have some work to do... cause I know for sure I didn't clamp the outer cable as it should be now that I know!

Vegas69 · #17 05-12-2011, 12:12 AM

Don't reinvent the wheel, GM engineered a good parking brake. I've never had any trouble with my factory mechanism and mounting points.

People reengineer an application and automatically blame the parts involved. Been there done that myself.

The WidowMaker · #18 05-12-2011, 02:41 PM

theres a shop in santa fe springs california that will make you custom cables that are supposed to hold up much better. i'll see if i can find a link, or maybe tobin will chime in with the company. they also sell a stock style foot brake that you push to the floor to release. im going to try and work it in to keep from having to run a release handle.