Quote:
Originally Posted by wmhjr
There's your problem. Factory specs are worthless once you've changed geometry using different spindles, ball joints, upper and lower control arms. You've changed your entire front geometry and need to align accounting for it.
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Since he hasn't changed his spindles or ball joints, the front end geometry is the same as stock.
At the minimum, I would recommend replacing all of your control arm bushings, the idler arm, pitman arm, tie rod ends, and center link. Tall Upper and Lower Ball Joints will allow you to run a more aggressive alignment, but you will likely need tubular upper control arms to get the positive caster you need for highway handling.
If you install tubular upper control arms and tall upper and lower ball joints, here are some alignment specs you can use:
Camber: -1/2 degree
Caster: +5 to 5.5 degrees
Toe: 1/16" total toe-in
If you can't swing the above components right now, bring your car back to get it aligned as close to these specs as possible in the meantime. Dialing in the camber and adding positive caster will help your handling situation some.