Burnt wire... how did this happen?

[Jr]

Take a look at the pic. How in the hell did this happen? How do I fix it? I will run out to the truck to get more info.

[dhutton]

It looks like possibly either a poor crimp in that connector or you exceeded the current rating of the connector. I am guessing the first. What circuit is this?

Don

[Vegas69]

I agree, solder and shrink wrap are your friend.

[GregWeld]

Appears you have a "high resistance" connection.... i.e., a crappy one -- that is acting like a toaster.

So either you're pulling too much amperage through the wiring (undersized wire for the load) -- or the connection is not capable of carrying that load. That could be due to a bad connection... or the connection is "opening up" because of the high load (think warping metal due to heat).

I would check the draw on that circuit... because the bad connection MIGHT BE your GROUND - rather than the + side of the circuit. A bad ground will be every bit as important as the actual power side! Don't over look it!

Many people don't understand the length / gauge / amp carrying charts.... those charts need to be DOUBLED on the length of the run. It's a CIRCUIT --- so if the load is 10 feet from the source -- it's calculated as 20 feet! When you use these charts correctly - the gauge of your wire will finally be ample for the load.

Good to finally meet you at OUSCI! Sorry I was really too busy to chat much.

[Jr]

Crappy wire...got it. This wire goes from the relay to the electric fans. I know 0, zip, ziltch, nada about wires. I will start search ing the interwebs for some info. Does anyoneknow what gauge wire might be over kill for something like this? It would be a thousand times easier to over kill this issue with a wire that better than what it should be.

David

[Jr]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Appears you have a "high resistance" connection.... i.e., a crappy one -- that is acting like a toaster.

So either you're pulling too much amperage through the wiring (undersized wire for the load) -- or the connection is not capable of carrying that load. That could be due to a bad connection... or the connection is "opening up" because of the high load (think warping metal due to heat).

I would check the draw on that circuit... because the bad connection MIGHT BE your GROUND - rather than the + side of the circuit. A bad ground will be every bit as important as the actual power side! Don't over look it!

Many people don't understand the length / gauge / amp carrying charts.... those charts need to be DOUBLED on the length of the run. It's a CIRCUIT --- so if the load is 10 feet from the source -- it's calculated as 20 feet! When you use these charts correctly - the gauge of your wire will finally be ample for the load.

Good to finally meet you at OUSCI! Sorry I was really too busy to chat much.

It was great to meet you as well. I understand that you needed to tend to your high paying job on the auto-x course. Nobody waives an orange flag like you, buddy. I think you made it into some of my video as well...

[98ssnova]

It looks like you have it powered out to two diffrent leads you might want to double check and make sure you are not missing a source wire.

[70rs]

Originally Posted by DJW32

Crappy wire...got it. This wire goes from the relay to the electric fans. I know 0, zip, ziltch, nada about wires. I will start search ing the interwebs for some info. Does anyoneknow what gauge wire might be over kill for something like this? It would be a thousand times easier to over kill this issue with a wire that better than what it should be.

David

Many fans pull huge loads at start up. Use the correct relays and wire with solid connections.

[GregWeld]

You say FANS -- as in plural -- which says you should have RELAYS - as in PLURAL -- One relay PER FAN... and a separate power lead to each relay.

To keep that "neat" -- you'd use a distribution block. SO a wire that is capable of carrying 60 amps - to a distribution block - then power wires capable of 30 amps - one to each relay.

The ignition switch wiring carries very little amperage so can be "light" gauge -- and the one wire from the ignition can be used to switch both Relays -- ditto the "trigger wire" (from the temp switch)...

Ground both relays right near where they're mounted. If the surface is painted use a star washer between the paint/primer and the lug. I always use a flat washer between the lug and the fastener.... that way as you tighten it up - the fastener can spin against the washer rather than twisting your lug/wire. It's best to clean off the paint clear down to bare steel... but sometimes that just makes a problem. So the star washer is made to CUT into the paint and get to metal. Remember - the GROUND is just as important as the power side.