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  #571  
Old 12-10-2011, 04:57 PM
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Very cool updates Ron.

Man! Cris sure does fab some cool stuff.

Nice valve covers. I just bought a set on eBay right before checking out your thread. All great minds think alike.

However, what's all that triple stuff about?
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  #572  
Old 12-10-2011, 09:07 PM
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Looking good Ron!
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  #573  
Old 12-10-2011, 09:16 PM
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WTF!! You guys aren't done yet!! What year is this!!

Just kiddin guys

Ron you know I love this build and Chris is ths man!! Friggin guy is genius.

My favorite part of this car is seeing the R888's in the back ground. You know when a guy is building a car and chooses R888's that he intends to play hard

Hope you guys make it to Buttonwillow in September. That would be the BOMB
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  #574  
Old 12-11-2011, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Track Junky View Post

Hope you guys make it to Buttonwillow in September. That would be the BOMB
Heck, he'll def make BW in Sept...

Now RTTC in March... he better be ready for that.
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  #575  
Old 12-12-2011, 12:45 PM
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Default Hey Ron

Nice progress.

Here is what I have come up with messing with my twin master set up for years. I am at .70 for the front and 3/4 for the rear. Running the Wilwood stuff (6 piston front 4 piston rear)and the sizing for my caliper piston area is about the same as a C5/C6 vette. My pedal ratio is 6:1. Caliper pressure gauges show 1200 psi front and 900 psi rear with about 100 lbs of leg pressure. I started at 7/8 in the front and 1 inch in the rear and could barely get my car to stop.

As Greg stated, the larger the bore the more fluid volume. I would have a higher pedal ratio (7:1) if I could have made it fit and run a slightlly larger bore size.The problem that I have run into is the masters are so small to help the pedal effort and to be able to lock the wheels, I do not have much fluid volume and you can really tell the pad knock back. If I were running power brakes with a large volume master (1 3/16), it would hide the knockback that I am getting now.

The balance bar is for fine tuning and you will need to try and size the masters as to run the balance bar as close to the center as possible. Then use the adjustment to fine tune or change for conditions. IE autocross, more rear brake, speed stop less. Reason for the larger master in the rear is for fluid volume and for the same given pedal effort there will be less force applied to the rear. Also, the rear caliper piston area is normally smaller than the front and will require less pressure.

Getting the corrrect pads will make the most difference in your stopping power. I was running Wilwood BP 10's and could not lock them up when cold. Swithed to a high bite autocross pad and it was like night and day. While trying to find the right brake compound I tried a full race pad, way too much for a street tire. I went to bed them in on the interstate, running 85 mph I hammered the brakes to start the heat cycle...front tires locked up. I was suprised to say the least.

That is a pretty racing looking set-up you have going there. Good luck with getting it dialed in. I would not run the same size master front and rear.
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  #576  
Old 12-12-2011, 01:18 PM
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Sorry guys, it was a very busy weekend and I coouldn't get back to this!

Greg/Marty thx for the input!

Bry - the trips are for a better control/finer adjustment and as Payton said, you can really get to it quick depending on use.

Cris - great work as usual. That oil pan fitting is a thing of beauty! Time to update the JCG Products thread?

Gae/Dave- Gunnin for Sept. RTTC is gonna be tough...

Payton/Matt - thx for your guidance. I think everyone gets a little smarter when guys who've done it jump in. I did speak to Baer and got some data over to Cris this AM. We'll do the calcs and try to get as close to a good starting point as we can. It looks like smaller/bigger (fr/rr) is the way to go. As far as pads go, all I have at the moment is stock from Baer. I have some ideas on that but need to get farther down the road to dig into it.

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  #577  
Old 12-12-2011, 05:43 PM
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Keeps gettin cooler and cooler Ron!!

Good luck with your September date. Lol....I used to set completion dates
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  #578  
Old 12-12-2011, 08:45 PM
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Cris - great work as usual. That oil pan fitting is a thing of beauty! Time to update the JCG Products thread?

Time to update it indeed Chris, I will take one if you are making them.
Great car Ron!
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  #579  
Old 12-12-2011, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonzo View Post
Lately we have been having a few LS7 with the dry sump systems on them.. One thing that was a pain on the oil pan plumbing was fittings that were big & the angles were taking it into the header.. I think this will help out with that.. Made our own oil pan block that sits it on top with a 30 degree angle.. Ordering fittings on Monday so the we can make a -12 fitting extender to take the hoses on a 90 degree..
Very nice as per usual Chris. I'd be in for one but I need to check and see if it will clear my (low mount) a/c compressor first.

G.
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  #580  
Old 12-13-2011, 08:54 AM
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Machine shop made 6 of these prototype oil pan blocks.. Currently getting modified for clearance on the oil pan.. I still need one more custom fitting to proof fitment..
I will keep you guys posted on the these parts as I go..


Quote:
Originally Posted by KPC67 View Post
Cris - great work as usual. That oil pan fitting is a thing of beauty! Time to update the JCG Products thread?

Time to update it indeed Chris, I will take one if you are making them.
Great car Ron!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandalf View Post
Very nice as per usual Chris. I'd be in for one but I need to check and see if it will clear my (low mount) a/c compressor first.

G.
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