1968 Camaro "Badmotorfinger" v2.2

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by preston

One regret I have on my engine was building it with Eagle/SCAT rods and crank. Not that they haven't performed, I've had no problems. But I want to support American manufacturing and companies as much as I can (used a DART block and AFR heads at least).

There was the cost of course. I don't know what other people's experiences are,and maybe this was more with the crank then the rods as I already had the rods for this buildup, it seemed like it was going to be a nominal 6 week lead time to get a crank (which means 10 weeks in the real world). Whereas SCAT and Eagle both had the crank in every configuration ready to ship (ie juggling main and rod sizes and balance options).

Some people seem like they spend years buying parts and putting together an engine. I tend to pull a damaged engine and want to get it back in the car asap. My machinist already takes long enough to get it out the door as it is, and he will barely glance at your engine after teardown until all the parts are sitting on the build table. I just couldn't take spending MORE THAN TWICE as much for a crank and then also having to wait who knows how long (BTW this was for a 427 Windsor with small 2.5" mains and chevy rod journals, zero balance).

That was my experience anyway. Next time I replace rods I will go USA and name brand - If I can get them! Maybe I just didn't talk to the right people or try hard enough but seems like they all had a long lead time.

Greg since you are on this thread (well, you are on every thread), do you have an engine builder you like in the NW ? Who do you plan on taking your Mustang engine too ? PM if you want to avoid thread jacking.

I hear you and won't argue your support of American products, and I don't wanna tangent into anything political or too controversial, but I have no issue with buying overseas stuff if it's decent quality. With regard to machine work - that's where the Americans come in and make sure it's up to snuff.

I am a business owner and I feel that if someone somewhere else can do better than me (or just as good) for a better price, then good for them. Asian and overseas products get a bad rap for a lot of stuff, but our dear Americans churn out a lot of junk too unfortunately. Like anything... caveat emptor.

Originally Posted by GregWeld

I have special jacking privileges

Greg! That is TMI buddy... TMI!

[makoshark]

The forged Eagle stuff is nice, strong stuff. However, they are rarely within spec. Ask any machinist, they will tell you. My Eagle forged crank had to be blueprinted due to it being so far out of spec.

[GregWeld]

So then --- what part of that is "nice"?


Don't answer - it's rhetorical question. Just saying' --- that if you buy parts and have to completely rework them -- then the prices are "cheap".... so you might as well have paid for a good piece that IS nice.

[makoshark]

The nice part about them was they were free to me

[intocarss]

Originally Posted by makoshark

The forged Eagle stuff is nice, strong stuff. However, they are rarely within spec. Ask any machinist, they will tell you. My Eagle forged crank had to be blueprinted due to it being so far out of spec.

100% correct... Eagle is not machined here, It's done in China. I ran SCAT stuff in my 1,000 Hp n/a 540 drag eng, because they are machined in the USA (and my budget) . They are still going strong after 7 years and 300+ runs seeing 8,200 rpm and some of those were with a 250 shot of N2o

Can't stress enough, That with the proper parts, clearances, balancing and and a very very clean assembly and routine maintenance is the key to making an engine live I do also agree that as far as "longevity" the China stuff won't last as long as the high $$ stuff

At the end of each season at the very least I changed valve springs, Lifters (rollers) Timing belt (Jessel) & rod bolts (ARP 2000) Every other season was bearings and rings if needed

And for what it's worth some of the big brand Co's do have their lower level $ stuff made in China but it's machined here

Disclaimer.. I am in NO way pushing China products and I am in full support of buying AMERICAN but sometimes you can't

[makoshark]

Scat is definitely the way to go for durable entry level parts ready to go out of the box. Mine was remachined in the USA

[Ron in SoCal]

Originally Posted by sik68

Very cool!

I can think of some expensive rods...Crower stuff can get pretty astronomical. They are, per the analogy, the Megan Fox of belt notches.

Ahaha...thx Steven! Maybe I'll rename my car Megan I used Crower billet Max-lites. At first we ordered Oliver road race rods. When they arrived we weighed them - 630 gms each IIRC. So we backtracked to Crower. Final rod weight was 580 gms. I was all over that.

I agree w Greg. Rod selection is critical...:

[Flash68]

Bottom line... no matter what rods we get... they are getting the full body cavity search by Mike and will be 100% made ready to go.

[Ron in SoCal]

^ What are you trying to say Dave?

I'll let Todd take this one...

[Flash68]

Originally Posted by intocarss

100% correct... Eagle is not machined here, It's done in China. I ran SCAT stuff in my 1,000 Hp n/a 540 drag eng, because they are machined in the USA (and my budget) . They are still going strong after 7 years and 300+ runs seeing 8,200 rpm and some of those were with a 250 shot of N2o

Can't stress enough, That with the proper parts, clearances, balancing and and a very very clean assembly and routine maintenance is the key to making an engine live I do also agree that as far as "longevity" the China stuff won't last as long as the high $$ stuff

At the end of each season at the very least I changed valve springs, Lifters (rollers) Timing belt (Jessel) & rod bolts (ARP 2000) Every other season was bearings and rings if needed

And for what it's worth some of the big brand Co's do have their lower level $ stuff made in China but it's machined here

Disclaimer.. I am in NO way pushing China products and I am in full support of buying AMERICAN but sometimes you can't

I agree Jerry. My PBM block was cast in China but it is machined here... and will be checked over and have final machining done at Watson. 2 American layers of work after the Chinese layer.

Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal

Ahaha...thx Steven! Maybe I'll rename my car Megan I used Crower billet Max-lites. At first we ordered Oliver road race rods. When they arrived we weighed them - 630 gms each IIRC. So we backtracked to Crower. Final rod weight was 580 gms. I was all over that.

I agree w Greg. Rod selection is critical...:

That's another thing.... these CAT rods are pretty heavy. Another reason I am looking at a something sub 600 grams ideally.

Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal

^ What are you trying to say Dave?

I'll let Todd take this one...

I'm not sure if that's worse for Todd... or me.