Norwood

[Track Junky]

Pick up some upper control arms and the dynamics of that car will change drastically. Tubular control arms are basically a band aid on an already troubled front end geometry but they do make a drastic improvement.

I would post my top secret alignment specs but if I did.......well you know

[Sieg]

So I've added the go-fast wheels and tires, Ricky Bobby alignment, T56 transmission, and racey spoiler so the car is feeling much improved and being driven a bit more aggressively…………..

About 5 weeks ago on a Sunday afternoon I had the first real Oh Sh*t moment I've had in 23 years of owning the car. While navigating a freeway off ramp with two great right/left corners and a short straight to a T intersection I was carrying a bit too much speed. I believe the combination of stock brakes, mediocre pads, and the 18" NT05's added to the situation. When approaching the T I realized the brakes were not exactly scrubbing enough speed As pedal pressure and weight transfer increased the rear drum brakes started locking the 275 NT05's, at about a 100 yards from the T I went into human ABS mode and started factoring options, none of which were good. I had a green light, a left turn lane with two vehicles, and an open right turn lane, and stopped cross-traffic to use for a berm in needed. Thankfully I scrubbed enough speed to literally back it into the corner and throttle out.

FWIW - My daily driver Tundra brakes would have easily made the stop, but with the Camaro I crossed the available clamping threshold line.

So in the 100 yds after near disaster, I cleaned and cussed myself for getting into the situation and resolved to initiate contact with Tobin at Kore3 as soon as I arrived at home.

After four days of question and answer with Tobin who is over the top good at accurately and honestly assessing customer needs I placed the order. All but one item was in stock and it arrived in four days and I drove up on Friday and picked up the components in person and spent some quality time with Tobin. He is really good people, besides being extremely knowledgeable, he is committed to integrity and genuine customer service.

My idea of a decent shopping trip!


So, over the last month I've been relatively busy in the garage.











Last but not least


Replacing all the front hard lines was actually enjoyable work. I had to fab a bracket for the stock metering valve since I'm still running stock rear drums, thus the reason for the rats nest of hard tubing around the master.

The brakes are the Kore3 GM C5/C6 Front Big Brake kit with upgraded 325 x 32 slotted DBA rotors and Hawk HP Plus pads, Kore3 hubs w/ 1/2 ARP screw in studs.

Finally some Stoppers!

Regretfully I have a perfectly good fresh 12 bolt with Moser axles and C-clip eliminator kit that I doesn't make for any decent rear disc options.......to the best of my knowledge.

[Track Junky]

Thats awesome Sieg. So Tobin didn't have any rears for you? I've been running the same Baer Track/touring set up since 2000. Not anything to brag about on this site but I have no complaints. See if you can pick up the rear touring set up from Matt and Kim at MCB.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Thats awesome Sieg. So Tobin didn't have any rears for you? I've been running the same Baer Track/touring set up since 2000. Not anything to brag about on this site but I have no complaints. See if you can pick up the rear touring set up from Matt and Kim at MCB.

Tobin has definitely has options, but we both agreed that Ford ends provide the better options and the fronts were manditory. What's your set up and real world experience?

I'm not a fan of knock-back especially on a bike, when you're timing braking points to split seconds, double-tapping to get pedal doesn't make for smooth corner transitions.

Having most of my aggressive racing or track experience on motorcycles on asphalt and dirt, weight transfer seriously reduces the amount of rear brake effectiveness. In my observations most people have a lot more rear breaking force than they need or use, though mid or rear engine cars change that opinion. So I could be out thinking myself a little on rear brake systems, but more due to knock-back issues than braking force.

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Tobin has definitely has options, but we both agreed that Ford ends provide the better options and the fronts were manditory. What's your set up and real world experience?

I'm not a fan of knock-back especially on a bike, when you're timing braking points to split seconds, double-tapping to get pedal doesn't make for smooth corner transitions.

Having most of my aggressive racing or track experience on motorcycles on asphalt and dirt, weight transfer seriously reduces the amount of rear brake effectiveness. In my observations most people have a lot more rear breaking force than they need or use, though mid or rear engine cars change that opinion. So I could be out thinking myself a little on rear brake systems, but more due to knock-back issues than braking force.

I'm running a 12 bolt also but not the c-clip eliminators. Heard they tend to leak after awhile. I ordered Baer 6P's and then sold them because they were to heavy. IMO with decent brakes its all about brake pads. Cant give up my brake pad source due to the healthy competition but I gaurantee no one would ever guess who's pads. Awesome stopping power with great modulation and an even, predictable bite. cant relate to the knockback issues either.

[Sieg]

One budget option I've considered is going back to C-clips with new axles which are realtively cheap and that resolves mounting issues and I can go to 1/2" wheel studs to match the new fronts.

What caliper and rotor are you running?

How are your pads regarding rotor wear? The Hawk HP +'s I have don't appear to be rotor friendly and they don't fall in the inexpensive category.

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by Sieg

One budget option I've considered is going back to C-clips with new axles which are realtively cheap and that resolves mounting issues and I can go to 1/2" wheel studs to match the new fronts.

What caliper and rotor are you running?

How are your pads regarding rotor wear? The Hawk HP +'s I have don't appear to be rotor friendly and they don't fall in the inexpensive category.

1/2" wheel studs are given. I'm trying to remember whos rotors Baer was using for the Track/Touring set up. I want to say Power Slot. Believe the calipers are PBR. I've had them so long I dont remember. I'm still on the original front rotors. Rears I've replaced once.
Have you been miking your calipers? Vince miked my calipers and jotted the number down with a sharpie on the rotor. We must still be within tolerance because he never mentioned I was due for rotors. As often as I drive my car I dont concern myself with rotor friendly pads. IMO they are a wear item but then again I am still on the original fronts and replaced the rears once.

[Sieg]

One thing lead to another.........once I had the OEM brake system removed the steering box that I've never liked was staring at me and it had developed a little leakage. So...............





So off to Lee Manufacturing it went to be rebuilt and altered to 12.7:1 with 32 lb valving.





Lee Mfg. was great to deal with in every aspect. What was really cool for me was when I called to let them know I was shipping it out I got Tom Lee himself on the phone and ended up talking to him about bikes and cars for well over half and hour. The story about him going Indy as a driver with Micky Thompson in the early 60's was awesome not to mention a memorable honor.

Back to business - Just finished bleeding the steering and before the end of the night I'll have the front wheels on and car off the stands ready to roll as soon as the weather cooperates.

I'm really looking forward to having these key contact areas of the car upgraded.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

1/2" wheel studs are given. I'm trying to remember whos rotors Baer was using for the Track/Touring set up. I want to say Power Slot. Believe the calipers are PBR. I've had them so long I dont remember. I'm still on the original front rotors. Rears I've replaced once.
Have you been miking your calipers? Vince miked my calipers and jotted the number down with a sharpie on the rotor. We must still be within tolerance because he never mentioned I was due for rotors. As often as I drive my car I dont concern myself with rotor friendly pads. IMO they are a wear item but then again I am still on the original fronts and replaced the rears once.

Good chance they are PBR's which should do fine with the proper rotor material and pad.

Tobin mentioned the slots in the DBA rotors serve as wear indicators, check the minimum service spec vs rotor width minus slot depth.

I need to run up to his place to return a stand alone prop valve, so I'll quiz him more thoroughly on rear options.

Thanks for the input, I can't get too much insight from other enthusiasts perception.

[Ralphlovs72chev]

I really like your story and your car Norwood. I bought my second 69 in 89 also. I sold it after 17 yrs for many reasons and regreted it big time. I had 2 other projects since then but i still loved my old 69 so i sold them to get my current 69. I emailed you once about your car and vinyl top. Its funny that you want to get rid of yours and im trying to add one to mines. In my opinion vinyl tops are way sexy on 69 Camaros so if you leave it on i wouldnt dislike your car at all... just to prove to you how much i like your car im building it just like your car. Hugger Orange with black vinyl top. Just so you know i love drag lites and have them but i was currently looking at some vintage wheels myself. 18 inch all around... i one day will post pictures. So even if your car is low budget its still awsume and beautifull in some of us guys and im sure your friend is up stairs looking at you with two big thumbs up......