67 Camaro - Dad and Son build

[boostin05blacks]

So it’s been a long couple of nights. I ordered and received the map sensor for the motor to complete the engine side of the wiring other than the coil packs. The port on the sensor was to big so I had to drill the hole on the intake to 15/32 and it fits good now. Just have to extend the wiring for the plug.

The brake lines have showed up from inline and I needed a couple more fittings so I’m waiting on the "T" that goes on the rear axle and the hold down clips for the frame. Then I will run the lines and bleed the system. Also waiting on the radiator to show up which should be soon. To complete the motor side of things I've started to piece together the intake with what I'll need and that will be ordered soon. Other than that just have to figure out what I’m going to do for exhaust. I really wanted to have side pipes, 3" ovals is what I was thinking but due to lack of room, expense I may just run dumps before the rear. We’ll see.

The main power source on the drivers firewall is complete. All main power wires have been ran and tightened. I need to finish up the gauge wiring, couple wires on the ecu, run relays for the headlights & fans when they get here and some miscellaneous stuff and that should be the rest of the wiring. I’ll be glad when that day is. Not too much longer before the car actually is able to fire.

Timmy came over last night as I really wanted to try to crank the car and check for leaks and make sure I had oil pressure. The main thing that still needed to be done was the main ground straps needed to be hooked up. One for each side of the frame to body, and one from the engine to frame, one in the rear for the main battery hook up, and a small one under the dash for ecu, gauges..ect. Instead of drilling and using bolts on everything I had him bring the welder and he welded the bolts right to the body/frame. This way there is one less thing to come loose and it’s a much better connection. While he did that I finished up the wiring for the starter and did the temporary wiring for the oil pressure gauge to see what was going on. After all the grounds where hooked up we gave it a go and everything went well, other than a small oil leak at the adapter that screws into the intake. I need to take it off clean it off and put some teflon tape on any pipe treads. It was a relief to finally here it turn over and confirm that the wiring so far is correct. Now it’s time to get the rest of the stuff buttoned up so I can actually fire it. Once I fire it up Ill only let it run for 30-60 seconds as it has to be broken in. I talked to my chevy dealership that I bought the motor off of and he said if I take the car to a certified mechanic and have them go over it and break the motor in I can gain back all the warranty that I have lost while the motor was sitting. So that’s what I'm going to do. I talked to a shop called Injection connection and they are going to go over the whole car once complete, break the motor in per the GM instructions, change the oil and strap her to the dyno. I want to start the car to check for leaks, make sure everything is working so I’m not paying shop rate because I have a leak in a fuel line..ect. Anyway here is a quick video and some pictures from the past few days.









http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...t=d3205b82.mp4

[72Z/28]

Nice Are you going to have a junction block to hook the battery positive terminal, starter and the alternator hot wire? if so could you please post a photo of it where it is going to be mounted?

The reason why I am asking is that I have the battery mounted in the trunk like yours and there is a junction block mounted on the passenger side fender well.

[boostin05blacks]

Originally Posted by 72Z/28

Nice Are you going to have a junction block to hook the battery positive terminal, starter and the alternator hot wire? if so could you please post a photo of it where it is going to be mounted?

The reason why I am asking is that I have the battery mounted in the trunk like yours and there is a junction block mounted on the passenger side fender well.

Yep. The main junction block that has constant power is located and mounted in the drivers fender area to the right of the pass-thru connector for the fuse panel. My main feed wire is 8 gauge and has a fuseable link connected to the selonid located in my trunk very close to the battery. The power wires that are ran to that main junction block go like this from back --->front in this order.

Main power wire - 8 gauge
Alternator wire - 8 gauge
Main fusebox power/interior pwr - 8/10 gauge cant remember what AAW ran
Main Ecu power - 2 leads

That pretty much covers the whole car. All my other powers will come off this block in some way. Hope that helps. Here are some pictures to show you.




Heres the path that I routed the main 1/0 gauge starter wire, wire to the ignition, and the main 8 gauge for the distribution block in the drivers fender.


Starter wire runs through the pass toeboard as seen here.



Hope that helps give a better picture. If you have any other questions I can help with give me a pm and Ill shot you my cell number.

[72Z/28]

Thanks man for the info and the illustrations you provided. I will definitely send you a pm with some photos showing how stupidly the wiring was done on my camaro. Hopefully I am going to learn from you how to rewire some stuff.

[boostin05blacks]

No problem. That's what we are all here for..without help I wouldn't be where I'm at now.

I ordered the last piece that I can think of to wrap the motor up. Radiator and all the pieces for the intake. All that should be here early next week. Then just have to finish some small wiring, mount the ecu, wrap up the gauges, either extend the coil wire plugs or get extensions, mount the coils, put the gaskets on the headers and tighten them down, fill the motor/radiator with coolant, run/route the PVC system. Cycle the key and check for leaks in the fuel system and coolant system and then let the heaven sing the sweet tunes of fire breathing power. Whoa I'm getting all excited...

So this weekend the old man came buy and we worked on tiddying up some lose wires, routing and securing the plug wires, fixing the oil leak at the adapter for the oil pressure gauge, running the power wire for the fuel system, and extending the wires for the map and cleaning that up. Next weekend I believe Timmy is going to come over so we can mount the pedal, ecu, and vaporworx stuff and mount the gauge cluster. Onto some quick pictures..






More to come soon..

[72Z/28]

Thanks manand best of luckwith your project. I noticed that you hooked up a pink wire, which I assume is the S wire on the alternator pigtail, to the alternator post on the back side. What about the L wire, did you connect any resistor between the L wire and the alternator exciter?





The reason why I am asking is that I have got the same alternator, and there was only the L wire on the alternator pigtail connected to the alternator exciter wire, and the S wire was not connected. The alternator was not charging the battery when the S wire was not connected. So, I connected the S wire to post on the backside of the alternator similar to yours and started to get 14.4V at the alternator, but there is no any resistor between the L wire and alternator exciter wire. I actually don't know whether the alternator exciter wire is hooked to the dash cluster or to the PCM, and there is no charge light.. I tried to trace the exciter wire but know luck. The wiring harness and the EFI harness are from Painless.

I also realized that a Ford starter solenoid was installed on the fender well,



Honestly I don't know what the rest of the wires are for.

[boostin05blacks]

Hey man. Without being at the car I honestly would only be guessing. My harness is from PSI and he wanted constant power for the pink wire. The main 8 gauge wire runs to the power block which is mounted on the drivers side firewall behind the fender as shown in the pictures above. If you want to talk on the phone hit me with a pm and Ill call you tonight or give you my number to call me. Ill help as best as I can. If it was me Id buy a kit from Mad Electrical ----> http://www.madelectrical.com/
I would call up Mark who is the owner, hes been doing this for over 30 years. The guy is a book on electrical for cars. Super nice guy..hell get you on the right path either way.




After thinking about it for a few days I didnt like how the wires where running over the control arms. So last night I pulled each side off and switched them to see if I could find a nice spot to mount the coils. The problem side is the drivers side as there is the steering box, brake stuff, clutch stuff, and headers. I found a good spot that should work on the underside of the firewall. Ill weld a mounting bracket to the firewall. Once mounted the closest point from header to coil should be no less than 2". Its closer than I like but if I burn up a coil Ill move them inside under the dash. Its part of hotrodding I guess. Im going to make up a heat shield also so that should help. Here are some pictures.. I have to get some better ones of the coils once mounted to show clearance.