HTP Invertig 221

[MoparCar]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Looks good Scott!

When you get the hang of it - and you're on your way - you'll just LOVE TIG.

Whenever there's something to weld - I'll grab the TIG over the MIG any day.

Also for easy puddle work -- get yourself some silicon bronze rod.

Sieg-Looks Great! Nice work.

Greg,
Is the silicon bronze rod some of the custom shops use (DSE, Holohans, Troy's, etc.) for sheet metal joints just standard old silicon bronze rod such as you would use with a O/A gas welding set-up or is it a particular alloy to use with TIG?

Thanks-Wes

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by MoparCar

Sieg-Looks Great! Nice work.

Greg,
Is the silicon bronze rod some of the custom shops use (DSE, Holohans, Troy's, etc.) for sheet metal joints just standard old silicon bronze rod such as you would use with a O/A gas welding set-up or is it a particular alloy to use with TIG?

Thanks-Wes

Wes -- forgot to add --- YES --- Gas welding SB rod uses a flux or flux coating - TIG does not.

http://metalshapers.org/101/covell/c...ilbronze.shtml

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Wes -- forgot to add --- YES --- Gas welding SB rod uses a flux or flux coating - TIG does not.

http://metalshapers.org/101/covell/c...ilbronze.shtml

Thanks for asking Wes and thanks for the info Greg!

TIG is very challenging in a good way. Beside requiring a lot of basic knowledge education it appears to require a LOT of seat time. My argon bottle isn't going to last too long.

Regarding helmets, my cheapie goes down to 9 but on it's scale something around 7-8 would be an improvement. I see an Optrel or comparable in the future.

I've also noticed you can't put too good a grind on the tungsten, it definitely impacts the arc shape and performance. Maybe I can get a package deal on a helmet and grinder.

Wish I had a Surgar Momma to support my perfectionist traits.............

Yes Greg YOU told me so........

[MoparCar]

Thanks for the replys.
Greg, I appreciate the link to the SB rod. That's exactly what I needed!
Wes

[Sieg]

First attempt at an outside corner with 16 ga. to 3/32 wall 1/2 tube.



Not real pretty but with every attempt there is progress.

[GregWeld]

Too much heat -- and moving too fast to try to keep up with the heat?

TIG is more finesse. If you have too much heat - back off the throttle.... CONTROL.

How well can you see? Can you see the part lines? Can you see the puddle develop? Can you see it freeze when you add fil?

[GregWeld]

Here's another little "welding" tip....


When doing something with "endings" -- start a tack 1/4" or less from the end and run it to the end -- back off the heat as you come up to the end and double dip @ the end just before lifting completely.... hold your torch for the post gas period..

Always weld up your corners or ends first. Place a couple quick tacks along the run so your metal doesn't gap out ahead of you. And tap your work down to close up any gaps created by the tacks.

Now go back and start your run. Go right thru the tiny tacks you made like they're not even there.

Any time you're finishing - dab twice or you get a crater or pin hole and don't just let off the gas pedal sharply. Anticipate the end of the run or the end of the piece and start to back off the heat - as the heat is already built up and has no where to go - which is why you should close up your corners or ends first... so you don't get down there with all this heat and just blow it up.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Too much heat -- and moving too fast to try to keep up with the heat?

Probably, still getting a feel for the throttle, engine, and steering input of the machine.

TIG is more finesse. If you have too much heat - back off the throttle.... CONTROL.

Trying to find the sweet spots between creating the puddle without over-penetrating the material and controlling width. With wire my tendancy was not using enough heat so I'm being more aggressive experimenting with the TIG. I'm learning, the TIG requires more patience than the MIG. I haven't tried anything thicker than 3/32, working with some larger scale 1/8 and 3/16 plate would probably help the learning curve.

How well can you see? Can you see the part lines? Can you see the puddle develop? Can you see it freeze when you add fil?

I can see OK but a helmet that would go 1-2 shades lighter wouldn't hurt but I can see real good when I get the rod stuck in the fricken puddle!

I need to hit YouYube and find some video's of close up the correct actions to understand right/wrong quicker.

Appreciate your input.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Too much heat -- and moving too fast to try to keep up with the heat?

TIG is more finesse. If you have too much heat - back off the throttle.... CONTROL.

How well can you see? Can you see the part lines? Can you see the puddle develop? Can you see it freeze when you add fil?

I think one issue I was having was the grind on the tungsten with my high-dollar grider was too coarse, I've since modified the grinder wheel with 180 grit sanding disk on the side and that puts a nice finish on the tungsten.

A little funny - I switched to AC to practice on aluminum then switched the AC off and started running bead on 16 gauge to get a feel for the differences in metal..........I don't think the machine switches back without powering down........either way I proceded to securely weld 1" of that 16 guage to my 1/4" work top.