Any car detailers here? step inside

[ricer]

Originally Posted by mpozziCPL

From there, a good wax coating followed by serious elbow grease, and then a repeat of wax and final buff. Use good quality micro-fiber towels that are designed for detailing and make sure the tags are removed and the seams are not going to scratch the paint if they happen to touch it.

I use Adams Products for the best results but Meguire's and OTC product are also good.

Just my .02 from a lot of detailing work ...

Mary Pozzi

so there is no need to polish/glaze it? The spidering is very very fine so maybe the wax will be enough i don't know. I was under the impression the polish/glaze is required.

[barrrf]

Originally Posted by ricer

so there is no need to polish/glaze it? The spidering is very very fine so maybe the wax will be enough i don't know. I was under the impression the polish/glaze is required.

HaulnSS said it best.

Wash / Wash Again / Clay / Polish / Protect

Check out his examples. And again, see the Adams Polishes website for tutorials. The polishing is the most time consuming part.

[ricer]

i am ok hiding them as i know the only way to get rid of them is to wet sand and then wait for them to come back in the coming months.

So i called meguiars and they said to use swirlx, ultimate polish, and one of their waxes. So i am going to give it a shot and if it doesn't work at least it will be protected, b/c the marks are barely there and just wanted to get back to the original deep finish it had when i got it (ordered it from the dealer so truck literally came from the factory to me and didn't sit on the lot)

[barrrf]

Dude, why come on here asking if you were just going to call Meguiars in the first place.

At least take 10mins and check out the tutorials on the Adams website. It still applies even if you buy the Meguiars stuff.

[HAULNSS]

To remove the swirls you need to use an abrasive system of some sort. By abrasive, it doesn't mean wet sanding, just something that will abrade the paint (SwirlX and Ultimate Polish are mild abrasive I think). The remove a swirl in the paint, you have to remove all the material around it down to the lowest part of the scratch. Light swirls can be removed with fine abrasive polish and deeper defects will require a coarser compound. It can be done by hand, but you will look like Popeye. This is where buffing comes in and the use of mechanical action to level the surface. By matching the proper pad with the proper polish or compound, you can remove most average defects.

On a properly prepared surface, the swirls will only "come back" if you are washing/drying the car improperly, using low quality towels, car dusters, etc.

Most of the glazes that fill and hide, don't fill or hide as much as you think (or want them to), so don't be disappointed if there are still some visible defects.

This black Chevelle was compounded then polished to remove the defects. I don't think a glaze would've made a big difference on this one.
http://www.mnzaino.com/phpbb3/viewto...fc8c8c40e7a1f6

Good luck and post some pictures of your progress when you start working on it.

Randy

[ricer]

Originally Posted by barrrf

Dude, why come on here asking if you were just going to call Meguiars in the first place.

i didn't realize they had a helpline that's why. I looked on their website forum and that just confused me more so i came on here for advice.

Originally Posted by HAULNSS

To remove the swirls you need to use an abrasive system of some sort. By abrasive, it doesn't mean wet sanding, just something that will abrade the paint (SwirlX and Ultimate Polish are mild abrasive I think). The remove a swirl in the paint, you have to remove all the material around it down to the lowest part of the scratch. Light swirls can be removed with fine abrasive polish and deeper defects will require a coarser compound. It can be done by hand, but you will look like Popeye. This is where buffing comes in and the use of mechanical action to level the surface. By matching the proper pad with the proper polish or compound, you can remove most average defects.

On a properly prepared surface, the swirls will only "come back" if you are washing/drying the car improperly, using low quality towels, car dusters, etc.

Most of the glazes that fill and hide, don't fill or hide as much as you think (or want them to), so don't be disappointed if there are still some visible defects.

This black Chevelle was compounded then polished to remove the defects. I don't think a glaze would've made a big difference on this one.
http://www.mnzaino.com/phpbb3/viewto...fc8c8c40e7a1f6

Good luck and post some pictures of your progress when you start working on it.

Randy

Thansk Randy......i realize my arms will be killing me but i would rather take my time/effort this way at first than burn through the paint b/c i really didn't know what i was doing with a buffer.

I did a test section (spot on a-pillar) with the swirlx and polish and it came out pretty good to very good. Some slight spidering there but really have to look for them. I will take some before/after and have to wait for a cool day to detail it b/c its a large pickup and will need most of the day to do it....screw doing it in 98* heat with humidity, and unfortunately I'm not wealthy enough to have climate controlled garage

[Stuart Adams]

Maaco drive thru paint job.

[barrrf]

Originally Posted by ricer

i didn't realize they had a helpline that's why. I looked on their website forum and that just confused me more so i came on here for advice.



Thansk Randy......i realize my arms will be killing me but i would rather take my time/effort this way at first than burn through the paint b/c i really didn't know what i was doing with a buffer.

I did a test section (spot on a-pillar) with the swirlx and polish and it came out pretty good to very good. Some slight spidering there but really have to look for them. I will take some before/after and have to wait for a cool day to detail it b/c its a large pickup and will need most of the day to do it....screw doing it in 98* heat with humidity, and unfortunately I'm not wealthy enough to have climate controlled garage

Ok - not a helpline, not their forums. They have tutorial videos. Here is a link to one of them.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...h_Removal.aspx

Trust Randy when he says use a buffer. If you dont want to use a variable speed polisher then use a random orbital buffer. Borrow one. YOur arms and your eyes will love you for it. Your work will come out 10x better than if you did the hand job - nohomo.

Also I agree with not doing when its hot outside. For 2 reason - 1) working this kind of heat SUCKS and 2) trying to remove polish in this kind of humidity SUCKS

[billetman]

I don't use everything Meguire's makes but I can say for a fact that the Next Generation Tech Wax has really helped the finish of my 46 Ford. Its not black but it does have a dark blue basecoat-clearcoat paint job. As stated above the wax job last only for a time and then it needs to be applied again but the results are very good as opposed to other products from other companies. Also as stated above a random orbital buffing every now and then and using a clay bar correctly can helped as does keeping the car in a garage especially during hot sunny days. Hope this helps.

[ricer]

well decided to brave the heat and knock it out. I forgot to take a before pic and when i was a done a nasty storm was coming so can't really see the sun reflection. However in the garage with the lights on it the swirl marks are nearly gone as well as some small scratches that i discovered while doing it. Overall i think it came out very good. Now i can enter any arm wrestling tournament.