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Old 07-27-2012, 11:08 AM
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Mkelcy Mkelcy is offline
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Default Recommended Rear Tire Clearance

I've got to get the (used) 17" x 12" Forgeline wheels (formerly on Bad Penny) I got for my project re-hooped. Apparently Penny's Lateral Dynamics rear end is a lot narrower than mine. (The front wheels are spot on.)

Anyway, if I stuff a 13" wide tire in the rear wheel well, I've got a total (inside and outside added together) of 0.75" clearance, which seems a bit tight to me.

I was thinking about having the wheels re-hooped to 11" wide, which would give me (with the same tire) a touch over 1.125" total clearance, which I'd try to split with 0.75" on the inside and .375" at the fender.

Does that seem like too much, just enough, or not enough clearance? I don't want rubbing.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkelcy View Post
I've got to get the (used) 17" x 12" Forgeline wheels (formerly on Bad Penny) I got for my project re-hooped. Apparently Penny's Lateral Dynamics rear end is a lot narrower than mine. (The front wheels are spot on.)

Anyway, if I stuff a 13" wide tire in the rear wheel well, I've got a total (inside and outside added together) of 0.75" clearance, which seems a bit tight to me.

I was thinking about having the wheels re-hooped to 11" wide, which would give me (with the same tire) a touch over 1.125" total clearance, which I'd try to split with 0.75" on the inside and .375" at the fender.

Does that seem like too much, just enough, or not enough clearance? I don't want rubbing.
I think 3/8" clearance is snug but doable for normal driving, but will rub on the track. This is a quadralink?
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
I think 3/8" clearance is snug but doable for normal driving, but will rub on the track. This is a quadralink?
It's a Lateral Dynamics 3 link that's centered with a Watts link. I don't think side to side movement will be a big issue, and this car won't see a lot of track time.

I was more concerned about the going-up-a-driveway-at-an-angle sort of thing. What I've read indicates that you can be tighter on the fender side than the inner wheel well side, because a bump will rotate the tire away from the fender and toward the inner wheel well.

I'm just trying to figure out what backspacing to go for on the re-hoop, because I don't want to do it twice.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:45 PM
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Gotcha. I know even with a panhard bar there's some movement. Does Mark have a recommendation?

https://lateral-g.net/forums/member.php4?u=753
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PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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