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  #1  
Old 08-12-2012, 09:40 PM
preston preston is offline
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Something we don't talk about much is cabin ventilation. After building a couple of these you realize how integrated that is into OEM design and how easy it is to F'up, especially when you no longer have a cowl. Most cars of this era depend on fresh air being prsssured down into the cowl and then routed to the cabin. And don't forget, that air also has to go somewhere, so you need exit vents. I had tried running 3" duct from the front of the car to the cabin before but I knew I didn'th ave room to do that so I built these ducts into the A-pillars and then run 3" brake hose to some fender mounted inlet ducts that you will see later. One duct goes straight to the driver with a manual door to block it off, and one goes straight into my heater box. I don't have pictures handy, but then I also built 3" ducts from the rear interior side panels behind the seats that connect to holes in the door jams. Sort of a crude approximation of the vents you see in GM car door jambs.



Here you can see the "HVAC" system such as it is, or maybe I should call it the HV system. Its the smallest cheapest heater you can get form Vintage Air. Like all of their stuff its designed to just breathe in cabin air but I didn't want to circulate stale air and the fan is loud, so I built an aluminum plenum around the intake fan and tied it to my passenger side duct. The unit is small but it produces plenty of heat at least for the NW. You can also see the wiper being built up. I would have loved a nice big vintage air repro A/C heater box, but there was no room behind the firewall for that stuff because of the 15" engine setback. I used the vintage air electronic hot water solenoid though so I at least had a nice smooth modern feeling knob for controlling the heat level rather than some kind of crappy cable. although I still use a cable to open and close the little defrost door. The system has worked well for heat and defrost, but the little squirrel fan is still loud. Its kind of amazing to me how well the original '67 ventilation/heater box system worked, its too bad I couldn't have kept those parts.








here is a shot of the finished insulated firewall (DEI tunnel/heat shield, pretty good stuff). You can also see the hydraboost brake booster adapted to dual M/C's.



I know these photos jump around the build process quite a bit but hey I'm lazy posting all this junk. I work on computers all day so I don't want to spend an inordinate amount of time posting.
In that vein, here is the trunk coming together and one sexy shot to keep you interested perhaps in the final build. The coolers and pumps are for the trans and rear end. I would have preferred an internal mechanicl pump especially in the rear end but couldn't afford it or didn't know about them when I had it built. Also note the fuel filler tube.





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Old 08-13-2012, 06:27 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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That last picture is the money shot. Cool build Preston.
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Old 08-13-2012, 07:42 PM
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Ron in SoCal Ron in SoCal is offline
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Hey Preston...can't tell you how much fun it is to see/read about this car. The thought, design and execution is a great learning experience. Keep going Sir!
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:21 PM
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I love the randomness of the pics.

The cabin ventilation... that's a new one on this site for me.... see something different everyday.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:53 PM
j-rho j-rho is offline
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Cool stuff Preston. You definitely did the right thing allowing for big front tires. I've raced Vettes and Vipers (which have static 51% rear weight bias BTW) a bunch in autox, and they just get better and better the more front tire you give them. 335s are definitely not too much!
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:23 AM
preston preston is offline
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Suspension design is one of the main things that got me into building my own cars. When I started on my latest design the C5 stuff was fairly new. I agonized a long time between using C5 and the circle track race equipment. At the time there was a lot of complaining on the vette racers forums about spindle flex, pad knockback, and bearings wearing out. THis was before the upgraded SKF and ZR1 bearings were available. I had visions of a super car that could be run on banked race tracks and I'd had pad knockback before and it sucked. Plus I wanted the design freedom to put my pickups and such wherever I wanted and create longer controls and such. I could already see a future where the majority of hot rods would be using the vette stuff too and I wanted something different. Nowadays I'm a litle more inspired by pro-touring and hot rods, at the time I was much more inspired by true racing cars so that also aided my decision. PIctures like this made it more stark - just compare the C5 hub to a real aluminum racing hub (slightly different than the one I used).



The downsides were
1) Big hub means big wheel offset to get a good scrub radius, which means I am limited on my wheel choices and have no recourse to buy/sell used wheels.
2) no parts compatibily, all the brakes and steering are custom
3) the biggest downside is weight, a C5 hub is ~8.5 lbs, but the spindle and brake bracket are only 6 lbs with UBJ. My hub is ~6 lbs, but my upright and brake bracket is 13.5 lbs for a 25% increase in weight.

However, it also looks way more hardcore and of course quite different from another me-too vette front end. Also my LCA's are about 1" longer (always good) and my spindle pin is very high, ie my CA mounts are very low allowing me to retain a very low RC without compromising other geometry. I also can use mammoth brakes as I have no issue with wheel clearance, and I use a direct mount hat which is stronger with less deflection than an offset hat. My crappy photography doesn't do it justice but the latest package looks truly awesome when you pull the wheel off. For some reason I don't have that picture.

The first upright you see in the photos is a Coleman modular asphalt spindle with custom dimensions. It is the same basic spindle used on the Agent47 front end and the Schwartz chassis. As you can see I added some further boxing and pin reinforcement at the expense of 1 lb.

Some of things I was striving for in my design were low scrub, low scrub radius, mild camber gain under bump and aggressive caster gain for extra camber gain in turns. In the end I actually copied the layout of the C5 pretty closely (I had a geometry file for the vette). The difference is my design ended up with less RC movement and less scrub and less bumpsteer, with longer IC's and slightly lower RC, while maintaing similar figures for trail, caster gain, and camber gain.
I wanted a high performance suspension, but I also wanted something that felt very stable going down the freeway, my sports cars have always felt darty to me with their big tires. I also tried to set the coilover as upright as possible for maxium motion ratio. Note also the high mounted swaybar, based on the standard circle track splined hollow bar and bendable aluminum arms.

I am running a 450 lb spring and I think it works out to about a 275 lb/in wheel rate. Pretty stiff on the street but then again my daily is a '92 Cadillac.





One regret was not setting the UCA up with a shim style alignment system. THe adjustable length UCA is actually pretty easy to setup and adjust, but not as easy, fast as a shim setup, plus with a shim setup you can instantly go back to previous settings.

The bushings are Currie "JOnny joints' which are basically an articulating polyurethane rode end. They are hard to keep greased and honestly the NVH level doesn't feel that different from when I used QA1 teflon rod ends. And they definitely have more stiction, so that's some thing I might change abck to using rod ends at some point. All of the coilovers also have a poly bushing at one end. I'll be honest though, the NVH in this car is pretty high, despite all my efforts I cannot really say it feels as streetable as I would like.

My street wheel is a 18*10.5" with 9" backspacing and my track wheel is a 18*12 with 9.375" backspacing. In the rear I use 18*13 wheels for both street and track.

Just last year I built my own uprights out of box steel re-using the Coleman aluminum steering arm/BJ mount. My overall design saved about 2lbs from the modified coleman. You can see the new spindle being built below, although I really didn't take enough pictures. Note the double shear mounting bracket for the caliper adapter, with enough room to shim it side to side to make up for welding distortion and tolerances. That system worked pretty well. With machining and fastidiousness you could probably shave another lb out of the whole design, but by the time you are done with everything its like "eh".

These are the original modified and gussetted Coleman spindles based on a Grand National pin.



Here are some of the parts of the one I built















Note the custom built trigger wheel from eMachineShop that will eventually be connected to a Racelogic traction control system.





You also may note the change in steering rack- I originally had a circle track rack that I had modified to support my wide track that never worked well. My suggestion is if you need any kind of custom steering - go directly to Woodward. This would have saved me a lot of headaches if I had done that originally. This new rack works great, and looks very pretty as well, and was setup with custom width for me. Tony Woodward got the assist just right on the first try too based on my input.

here are some pictures of the rack






The new uprights helped support an eBay purchase I made of some SERIOUS PFC Endurance racing calipers. These things retail in the Hoerr catalog for $3k apiece. Needless to say I paid no where near that. THey were a lightly used spares package from a Ferrari challenge team that was based in England. NIckel plated mono-block goodness !! Only downside is pads are hard to get, very expensive, and since they are race pads my wheels are permanently dusty. But man do they look cool LOL. I have not even had them on track yet. Remember how I mentioned lots of brake clearance ? I am using a 15" rotor in a 18" wheel with a ~8+" wide caliper that uses 1.25" thick brake pads. Makes all the Baer/Wilwood/Stoptech street based stuff look pretty wimpy (and looks are what we care bout on lateral-g right ?)

The hat is direct mount and uses Brembo floating hardware with anti-rattle clips (as developed for the McLaren F1 !). THe rotors are custom made from Coleman.



I'll have to look on the camera for some other photos, I can't believe I don't have a photo of the mounted caliper on the 15" rotor. The rears are 14" Coleman rotors with the same floating hardware. I am using a racing style dual M/C system driven by a hydraboost. I built the custom adapter to do this i'll show that some other time.


The shocks are nothing to be proud of however, some rebuilt obsolete Bilsteins in the back and some AFCO adjustabl circle track shocks up front. Someday I would like to upgrade those pieces, but I really don't feel like my driving is sophisticated enough to pursue that right now. Mostly I think they could be a little softer for street driving.

Anyway I hope you enjoyed the photos and seeing a suspension design that is quite a bit different from an upgraded '60's era GM or another plain jane vette front end.
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:27 AM
preston preston is offline
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The rear suspension is an 3 link with an underslung watts. I love the lightweight and simplicity of this watts, no giant cantilevered brackets hanging off the rear housing. However it is not adjustable, I use the rear sway bar and springs to tune. A low rear RC is highly recommended by Mark Ortiz and other live axle racers, and this is about as low as you can go. I just reinforced and gusseted the housing and pierced it with some threaded rod, also gusseted inside the housing, then added a double shear bracket out of .125 steel. I forget the name of the guy who made my "football" it was kind of a one off deal. In the photo a few things are mismatched, that is a very old photo that was still using mockup pieces.







Oh here I did find the rear caliper mounted, not a good photo as the light doesn't really catch it and you can't really tell how large that caliper really is, plus my older equipment is kind of dirty not like the real sexy build photos of all new parts we're used to seeing here.




Note that the link and swaybar and caliper brackets are all bolt on not weldon. I use anti-rotation bolts and I've never had a problem. Heckuva a lot easier than welding them.



The links for the 3 link are 29" long, and use Howe rubber bushings up front.

It is a full floater of course, but without some of the fancy hubs and hardware that have been showing upfor PT cars in the last year. But again, big beefy circle track hubs and direct mount hat with floating 14" rotors. Aluminum 3rd member case (10 lbs lighter). Trutrac diff with 3.08 gears, 31 spline axles.

I think my Anti-squat percentage is only about 50%, but I'm still not convinced you want greater than that or not for road racing. Never had a problem with brake hop !

I am running 250 lb springs for a wheel rate of about 275 lbs with a 1.1 motion ratio.

Last edited by preston; 01-11-2013 at 07:55 AM.
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