HELP me please!! Brake line distribution block!!

[fletcherscustoms]

Well the gremlins have finally came and bit my car!! I had all plans of driving project " Shop beater" this morning. All I had left to do was brake lines. Well we got all brand new Inline Tube lines installed, and can get the front brakes to work but the rear has no pressure at all!!! I think I have the distribution block plumbed wrong or something. I can get fluid to the rear but no pressure at. have plenty of pressure at the MC but none after the block. I need pics are help as to how to plumb this thing.

I am using Hydratech booster, Wilwood MC, 4 piston 13" willwood on all four corners, and new Stainless lines. The Distribution block I purchased is part # DBC-40 on Ricks First Gen, http://www.rickscamaros.com/cgi-loca...4a8+1145913011

[Payton King]

I believe that they get the distribution block from Master Power Brakes. You may want to call and ask them. I sounds to me that there is a clog or restriction in the block.

If I am not mistaken, you do not need to run the distibution block if you are running 4 wheel disc. There is a check valve in the block to keep a small abount of pressure for drum brakes. You do not need this on disc. I believe that you can bypass the block for the rears...just make sure you have proportioning valve for bias adjustments. You really don't need it for the fronts either, but since you have plumbed it up, you might as well use it on the fronts.

[fletcherscustoms]

I ditched it!!! And now I have brakes!!!!

I got another issue. The pedal when depressed stays half way down, it'll come up some then stops. Could it be my return line from the steer box is to close to the booster.

[Payton King]

I have no expierence with a hydra boost system, but it seems that I have read some problems when putting a "T" fitting when running the system. I would call Hydra boost on that problem.

[Hydratech®]

It sounds to me like you still have some brake bleeding work to do, as these assist units actually require the force of the MC to shove them back into their released position (like a manual brake would shove back to rest). Too small of an MC bore size, like the Baer supplied 15/16" MC, also do not quickly and cleanly shove the assist unit back to neutral either (per the smallish MC bore size). The location of the T fitting isn't very critical, though the orientation of the T fitting is very critical - click here for more on this:
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/foru...topic.php?t=38

Know that you also have our full support available to you as you did purchase this system from us = please feel free to call me if you have any further possible questions, as we really are here for you.

As far as your distribution block issues? It sounds like a pressure imbalance between the front and rear had actually attempted to lock out the rear brakes (which is what later model combination valves are designed to do). If your front brakes where blead out well, though you had enough air still trapped in the rear, the combination valve most likely "thought" that you had a failed brake line (per no real pressure building up in the rear circuit as a result of the air) and attempted to lock out the "offending" circuit. Some have a push button that can be depressed to reset the shuttle valve internally, others require hydraulic force to shuttle the valve back to neutral. What you could've done was to trick the valve into opening back up by pumping up some pressure in the rear circuit, then hold the pressure firmly on the pedal, then open up a front bleeder. The valve would've shifted in the opposite direction per the pressure loss in the front circuit, effectively then locking out the front brakes as the "offending circuit"...

[Hydratech®]

Note that we have observed that in some cases it IS actually necessary to run a residual pressure valve with rear disc brakes (!) Here is a classic post discussing this: http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16702 While the end result isn't listed in the post, this guy called me and thanked me for finally solving his issues for him (yes, he took the easy way out and installed a 10 lb residual valve instead of yanking the diff apart and doing it the right / hard way)...

Flying smack dab in the face of conventional wisdoms, even a 10 lb valve will not cause any noticeable drag or heat buildups, though definitely keeps the brakes "strike ready" at all times. True, you do not want to run them if not needed, or maybe only a lighter 2lb version. We typically will install a 2lb valve in each right / left hard line running to each rear caliper when a C-clip axle is in use, which cumulatively has the same effect as running one single 4lb valve in the mainline (before being split right / left at the end of the brake flex hose). Since the valves are only typically available in either 2 lb or 10 lb, running a 2lb valve x one for each wheel is a decent way to split the difference.

[fletcherscustoms]

Well liek I said I removed the block and ran straight out of the MC. I now have brakes. but haev the problem of the pedal returning halfway and staying there and taking a good bit of pressure to pull it back up. Teh brake stay locked to till the pedal is returned all the way up. I think bleeding more might be needed, but looking for other insight. I have been fighting brakes all week long, from lines not fittings, to bad fitting, cracked lines from a reputable soure, Wilwood MC having a stripped fitting, and now pedal stickage, lol

[Hydratech®]

Do you have your T fitting oriented correctly?

Here is the proper orientation illustrated from a flow perspective:


Here is the INCORRECT T fitting orientation (which will cause the issue you describe):




Are you running a cooler or filter?

[fletcherscustoms]

yeah!! I did that correctly. Pretty sur eit air in the system, we haev fought leaks all week!! I'll need to reblead tonight anyway as I have to change out a rear line. Paul if it doesn't get better I'll call you tomorrow