Butt Splicing

[Vegas69]

I've heard you say that 100 times now Weld, you were wrong every time including this one.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

I've heard you say that 100 times now Weld, you were wrong every time including this one.

To imply that OEMS solder their connections - of any kind - is wrong and misleading particularly in a forum that is read by many people of various skill levels.

One or two soldered connections - such as the type mentioned by Bob are atypical (meaning rarely or unorthodox). Soldering a stranded wire that is used for it's flexiblity - just turned that point into a solid core wire (as used to wire a house rather than a car).

Once in a great while it might be necessary to make a junction this way but it certainly isn't the common way to wire a car or marine application and is the wrong way for 99.99% of the connectors or butt splices used in autos.

Why try to confuse those that are less knowledgeable just to argue about the one splice in one harness where's it's okay to solder that point?

[Vegas69]

Sure, in a perfect world you wouldn't need a solder connection or butt splice. The OEM's have the benefit of having wiring harnesses designed for mass production. It's my opinion that a solder connection is extremely strong and reliable. You do it your way, and I'll do it mine. If it's a crucial connection, I'll solder and shrink it. I'd also argue that the voltage drop across a butt splice is larger than a solder connection which can be crucial in many instances.

[barrrf]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Sure, in a perfect world you wouldn't need a solder connection or butt splice. The OEM's have the benefit of having wiring harnesses designed for mass production. It's my opinion that a solder connection is extremely strong and reliable. You do it your way, and I'll do it mine. If it's a crucial connection, I'll solder and shrink it. I'd also argue that the voltage drop across a butt splice is larger than a solder connection which can be crucial in many instances.

That voltage drop is very easy thing to test. No point in arguing it when any one with a multimeter can test both ways.

But since we're arguing, Id argue the voltage drop across either is negligible at most because its such a short distance for the voltage to travel.

[Vegas69]

Bart, I'm aware of how you measure a voltage drop.

[ccracin]

I twist the wires together and use wire nuts with electrical tape. I have never had a problem, ever. I promise.......

Just to add another industry to the mix for reference, I worked in the transportation industry for years. We built people movers and light rail transit vehicles. Soldering wire splices or terminals in general was prohibited unless specifically reviewed and approved. These were government contract specifications. The reasons were as Greg mentioned as well as degrading the integrity of the insulation due to heat. As with many things, crimp joints must be done correctly with the proper terminals and corresponding tool. When done properly the voltage drop is so low that most multimeters we have in our garages are not sensitive enough to read it consistently. In the end, solderless crimp terminals were engineered to eliminate the undesirable characteristics of the soldered joint. The previous is fact.

The following is opinion. I personally think it is more difficult to make good consistent soldered joints under a dash, in a tail light hole, etc. than a crimp joint. In the end if you have a method that works and is proven for you than so be it. But for those that do not and are looking for information regarding a way to proceed, I recommend solderless crimp terminals. The information John presented is very good and is a good start for those looking to learn.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by ccracin

I twist the wires together and use wire nuts with electrical tape. I have never had a problem, ever. I promise.......

Yeah! But are you doing a "tap" -- "twist" -- or a "western union"....


Let's see if any of ya can figure out what a "western union" is. Bunch of friggin' newbs!

[Vegas69]

Originally Posted by ccracin

I twist the wires together and use wire nuts with electrical tape. I have never had a problem, ever. I promise.......

Just to add another industry to the mix for reference, I worked in the transportation industry for years. We built people movers and light rail transit vehicles. Soldering wire splices or terminals in general was prohibited unless specifically reviewed and approved. These were government contract specifications. The reasons were as Greg mentioned as well as degrading the integrity of the insulation due to heat. As with many things, crimp joints must be done correctly with the proper terminals and corresponding tool. When done properly the voltage drop is so low that most multimeters we have in our garages are not sensitive enough to read it consistently. In the end, solderless crimp terminals were engineered to eliminate the undesirable characteristics of the soldered joint. The previous is fact.

The following is opinion. I personally think it is more difficult to make good consistent soldered joints under a dash, in a tail light hole, etc. than a crimp joint. In the end if you have a method that works and is proven for you than so be it. But for those that do not and are looking for information regarding a way to proceed, I recommend solderless crimp terminals. The information John presented is very good and is a good start for those looking to learn.

Totally agree, whether using solder or butt connectors, it's the sum of the parts, tools, and brains behind the operation. Either will likely work fine in this venue.

When I think butt connector, I think nickel and dime connectors with a walmart 9.99 crimper. Come on, everybody has them and is what will likely be used in 99% of weekend warrior projects.

Clearly, there are places where soldering is just not an option and a failure of the circuit isn't the end of the world.

Moral of the story, do what you are most capable of doing well.