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  #1  
Old 05-04-2013, 02:55 PM
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Doug

Do you have something to tell us?

http://www.network54.com/Forum/75943...spension+68-70

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Old 05-07-2013, 07:34 PM
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Doug

Do you have something to tell us?

http://www.network54.com/Forum/75943...spension+68-70

MAYBE....

What do you think of this offering from Shaun?





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Old 05-08-2013, 06:03 AM
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works for me
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Is a car ever really done???? It's like a ball of yarn unwinding, that has no end... Author DKz Garage

Projects - Syborg TT 4.3l v6 Mini-Truck, 2nd Chance Camaro & SLP575 Bumble Bee - 4Sale
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
works for me
Thanks. One of the good features of Shaun's system, is that I do not have to cut off the coil spring support, and he is easy to get a hold of on the phone.

He also custom ordered my brake system, a couple years ago, and it's awesome.

Should be deciding in a day or so.

I also heard news that the pistons arrived and the crank has already been sent out for balancing
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:43 PM
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With the upgraded electronic sequential LED brake lights and turn signals, the old style turn signal clicker is not used.
Not that I could hear it anyway, but I have found myself driving down the road, with the turn signal left on.
I always feel a little dumb when that happens.

So I had always wanted to update this, and make an electronic (sound) indicator, which is loud enough to hear over the engine.

Well I bought a cheap flasher housing.

Gutted it.

Filled it with a piezo buzzer, capcitor, some resistors, a couple diodes and a bit of heat shrink.

Voila, an electronic turn signal indicator, that won't mess up the led flasher.
It should mount on the stock dash location.

The tiny hole is where the sound comes out.

The capacitor makes the buzzer sound a little more like a fading bell sound

diodes make sure the current does not come back out of the new chime and f-up the rest of the system

Once the car is running, we shall see how it works, and sounds.
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Last edited by Ripped; 01-20-2019 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:18 PM
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I guess I am finally getting into the spirit of getting the car, finally back on the road again.

I wired in the new signal indicator, and confirmed the coilover order yesterday.

After reading the instructions this morning, the assembly is integrated with the export brace. This means it's a little more work to re&re the engine with the coilover system.

But after a little thought I decide to get the billet shock tower brace. That way I can mount the coilovers permanently and just remove the braces, for popping the engine in and out.

It's a pretty nice piece and the right decision, I think.

Shaun's cowl bracket is one of the nicer pieces out there.





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Old 05-15-2013, 07:16 AM
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I think you'll like the kit. Im using the Total Control Products front suspension on mine and think it handles great. (Virtually the same thing) I did however go to a Fatman dropped spindle to get my ride height. I currently run a 265/35-18 and have plans to change to 275 soon enough. There is enough room under there, you just have to NAIL the backspacing.

The export brace setup is awesome. I almost purchased it for my mav but there were too many differences between the Mustang and Mav firewalls to make it work. I might go back and purchase the shock tower plate and rods later if he'll break up a kit though.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GrabberGT View Post
I think you'll like the kit. Im using the Total Control Products front suspension on mine and think it handles great. (Virtually the same thing) I did however go to a Fatman dropped spindle to get my ride height. I currently run a 265/35-18 and have plans to change to 275 soon enough. There is enough room under there, you just have to NAIL the backspacing.

The export brace setup is awesome. I almost purchased it for my mav but there were too many differences between the Mustang and Mav firewalls to make it work. I might go back and purchase the shock tower plate and rods later if he'll break up a kit though.
Too bad the Maverick is not as similar in dimensions, to the mustang. That'd make it a lot easier.

I like your Maverick BTW !

For backspace, I used a 95-98 mustang wheel with a cut and weld on the inner rim, and machining on the hub face of the wheel, to go as deep as I could.
I'm not sure how that wheel fits on the maverick.

I did a lot of calculation, with wheel and backspace combinations, before cutting the wheels.

After I got it all together, I ended up pulling the wheel in a little tighter with the hub face machining. I'm maxed out with the 17's and the UCA's now. I'd have to go 20's to go deeper. Honestly I don't want to go 20's on the car. 18's max, and that doesn't gain me enough to switch.



I'm pretty happy with where I am now, but I run a race camber spec to make it all work and not rub anywhere

Last edited by Ripped; 01-20-2019 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:03 AM
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While I am waiting for the engine;

My new high horsepower wheels.



A little quieter than the Mustang, but easier on gas
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:29 AM
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While I am waiting for the engine;

My new high horsepower wheels.



A little quieter than the Mustang, but easier on gas
A Kona Mountain Bike - Man it's hard to find a Kona dealer around here.

Nice to see a fellow rider into cars.
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Is a car ever really done???? It's like a ball of yarn unwinding, that has no end... Author DKz Garage

Projects - Syborg TT 4.3l v6 Mini-Truck, 2nd Chance Camaro & SLP575 Bumble Bee - 4Sale
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