Chev C20 RHD

[Greg from Aus]

Very cool

[Thomo5150]

OK big news of the day........

Yes the UNI body is back on the cards, but!!!!!!

Instead of trying to fit fleetside back panels to the cab im going to fit Blazer panels which changes a few things. One is the wheelbase, it gets another 10 inches taken out of it making it (with the front wheel centerline set forward 1 inch) 107.5 inches...

Here is some pics to give an rough Idea to what it will look like, balance is the key. You notice the Chev needs large diameter wheels to make the body lines work, first pics the owner has 20 inch rims, then they are swapped for 22inch rims. Anything smaller makes the body lines not work rite as per last photo......







Same truck with 22's





Check the small rim diameter on this trucks front wheel to me it doesn't suit the body lines....

[214Chevy]

I'm putting 22's on my 68 C10 as well. I know alot of guys don't agree with it, but I feel like 22's fill up the wheel well on a truck very nicely. 22's with the right, lowered stance....ooooh weee!! Not too big, not too small in my opinion. Plus, I'm not gonna be auto crossing or tracking the truck anyway, so... Now, for track guys, of course a 22" tire would be too big. But, my all of my cars are for street cruising and just rolling on the summer nights. If one can put a 20" on a 69 Camaro, then how is a 22" too big for a full size truck?

[Thomo5150]

I agree you need to add rim size to a C10. I no by fitting Blazer quarter panels and shorterning the wheelbase a 2 to 3 inch roof chop is needed to get the body lines rite on my project.......

[Thomo5150]

Spent the weekend grinding the frame, its now at the Blazer wheelbase. I've split the frame from all of the crossmembers to weld the front and rear rails together. Plan for this week, finish welding and cleaning the rails then re square the frame fit it to the chassis table then fit the Cab. Good news there is no clearance issues with the gearbox and frame crossmembers.......

[Thomo5150]

More progress....

I turned the frame on its side an bolted the front and rear sections of frame together. By cutting the frame at the centre of the rear cab crossmember it is very easy to reassemble.

Frame joined, you can see the 3 crossmember hole in the right side of the frame



Bolting in the crossmember



First hole drilled on the rear of the frame



Because 25 inches was cut from the frame it does tapper in on the rear section, by jacking and using a straight edge the rear was squared again there is a 3mm tapper in the rear frame section added....

Passengers side



Drivers side



The frame wont be welded till its back on the chassis jig and squared and set at ride height with is 6 inches to the lowest part of the frame under the cab....

[Thomo5150]

This is where I am, need to go back to work for a week. I'm still working out the ride height, problem is my Cab is stored else where so I can't place it on and check things. The drivetrain is in, it needs to be lifted at least 2 inches but you should get the idea of how this will work. The firewall will need to be recessed I have the motor set back where a normal LS engine would sit in one of these trucks....

Ground clearance for the sump is only 4 inches atm...



Frames lowest point is set at 6 inches, this may change....( Please feel free to comment on the height, I have never owned one of these trucks its all a learning curve for me



Started adding threaded rod between the frame rails to help square and hold the frame before final welding...