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Old 06-12-2006, 10:40 AM
Matt@Lateral Dynamics Matt@Lateral Dynamics is offline
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Don't forget that once the engine is set back far enough, even if it isn't enough to really impact front/rear bias, the opportunity to move the engine down is presented. Good stuff there.

Everybody should have a dry sump small block!
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Old 06-12-2006, 01:13 PM
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slow4dr slow4dr is offline
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Unless I make my own front clip to work around my front pan set-up on my engine I will have to run a dry sump.

The other option would be to set the engine back far enough to clear the cross member to which I am not against.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:27 PM
Mean 69 Mean 69 is offline
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Quote:
The other option would be to set the engine back far enough to clear the cross member to which I am not against.
Yeah, baby.....
M
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Old 06-12-2006, 11:34 PM
race-rodz race-rodz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt@RFR
Everybody should have a dry sump small block!
im really suprized how few people run dry sump oil systems, in a "good" handling car it is very easy to starve a wet sump system....even on street tires.

on a side note....there is a fortune to be made if "somebody" were to whip out roadrace dry sump pans for sbc's. 99% of all dry sump pans i found were made for goin left
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Old 07-06-2006, 03:46 AM
Twin_Turbo Twin_Turbo is offline
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I have a 5 stage dry sump system on my engine with the tank in the back (above the rear axle) I too wanted to move the engine back a considerable amount but ran into a problem, the transmission. Because I'm using a Zf6 with it's internal rails the shifter is in a fixed position and as it is now it's already pretty far back, just in front of the parking brake. Then again the engine is aready a considerable amount behind the front axle on the C3 corvette (about the only reasonably good thing about the chassis/suspension setup) and as low as it gets. I couldn't get it any lower without loosing a lot of ground clearance.

As for the oil pan, I have a stainless dry sump pan, it's custom made and has the 4 scavenge ports equally distributed, one in the front two the pass side front & rear and 1 on the drivers side rear so they are out there.





A big block is only about 3" longer than a small block, and that's using a long water pump so w/ a short one you win a little there.It's about 20,5" for the small block and 23,5" for the big block from water pump snout to bellhousing flange.

Last edited by Twin_Turbo; 07-06-2006 at 04:52 AM.
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