Anybody use or have thoughts about the "anti-sway" or "load stabilizer" bars that I've seen used? Some are pretty simple, some very complex. There's even a single sided attachment targeted specifically at anti sway (I've never had much of a sway problem as long as the tongue is weighted properly).
One of the simple designs....
Jeff-
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You remind me of the timing on a turbo engine...
I wouldn't spend the money on these until you've actually hauled with a loaded trailer... because it all depends on the trailer and the truck combo whether or not you need it.
My short bed crew cab Dodge 2500 (single wheel rear) needed it --- my Dually F-350 did not -- same trailer same load.
Brother in laws Ford F-250 needed it towing his old trailer -- but hasn't used it since he got my old trailer...
BTW --- The SWAY CONTROL DEVICE is a total PITA.... it's just a bar that slides between an adjustable "brake/friction" surface. You have to stop and remove it before backing etc.
If I had a trailer that needed that (which is separate from the load leveling hitch) I'd sell it before I'd add that. No good trailer should have to have that.
This is kinda apples to oranges because this isn't what I would call a serious load, but is what prompted the question...
I towed last weekend with an open trailer down to a casino show. I set up the load so it just barely set the rear of my Yukon down. It towed perfect! No sway or bob, no "light" feeling front end, I thought it was ideal. One of my friends commented that I had sure "loaded that poor truck down".... WTF...
Jeff-
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You remind me of the timing on a turbo engine...
Loading the rear of the tow vehicle down one inch is almost PERFECT.... the "tongue" should have 10% of the load on it. So 6,000 pound load should have 600 pounds of weight on the tongue of the trailer.
If the trailer doesn't sway --- and some do! --- and the front of the tow vehicle isn't getting "light" and becoming a "too much steering input" issue.... Then I'd say you've got no problems.
NOTE: Too LITTLE air pressure is the biggest cause of tire failure -- so when towing ALWAYS fill your tires with the proper air for TOWING..... A stiffer sidewall (more air pressure) will also help with trailer handling. I actually adjust my tire pressures depending on the season -- I use more pressure in the winter than in the summer... because the HEAT of the roads etc changes the "running" pressures. I run 105 pounds in the front in the summer and 110 in the winter on "the rig".
This is kinda apples to oranges because this isn't what I would call a serious load, but is what prompted the question...
I towed last weekend with an open trailer down to a casino show. I set up the load so it just barely set the rear of my Yukon down. It towed perfect! No sway or bob, no "light" feeling front end, I thought it was ideal. One of my friends commented that I had sure "loaded that poor truck down".... WTF...
Jeff-
Jeff- I use my 2500 Suburban for towing an enclosed 24' Wells Cargo and it does awesome for a gas motor. Great tow rig- Mine's white too
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] CHRIS HOLSTROM CONCEPTS
Jeff- I use my 2500 Suburban for towing an enclosed 24' Wells Cargo and it does awesome for a gas motor. Great tow rig- Mine's white too
This was my first tow since I bought the truck, I had been warned that the 6.0 was gonna drink gas and have no real power... it did absolutely fine. I didn't put pen to paper but a 3 hour round trip on a 1/4 tank of gas is not "drinking". I really don't think the Dmax dually I had would have done much better. Plus, this Quadrasteer ruins you.
Jeff-
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You remind me of the timing on a turbo engine...
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