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  #91  
Old 10-25-2013, 01:13 PM
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GregWeld GregWeld is offline
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Grey Powder Coated center and Brushed rim


Come on Ken -- what's with this little postage stamp pic!! I'm old -- I can't even tell what that is a picture of?!?!?!?!


HAHAHAHAHHAHAHA


It's coming along nicely!
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  #92  
Old 10-25-2013, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pist0lpete View Post
I would be interested to know what your passenger side head to firewall clearance is. Those AC brackets look very similar to the Alan Grove components that mount a Sanden 508. I am beginning to think I could possibly make those work without notching the frame.



1 1/4"....................


Ken
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  #93  
Old 10-25-2013, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
Come on Ken -- what's with this little postage stamp pic!! I'm old -- I can't even tell what that is a picture of?!?!?!?!


HAHAHAHAHHAHAHA


It's coming along nicely!




Greg......It's beyond my Technical ability to find a bigger picture..........LOL
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  #94  
Old 10-26-2013, 11:44 AM
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Another one of those little things that get stuck in the back of your head that you know will become a problem downstream because it's going too smooth just popped up........Now that I'm going to pull the engine for the last time (Hopefully) and tie up some loose ends......I decided to go back and check the tie rod to oil pan clearance that everyone else has "Issues" with....I didn't have any ......I had a slight contact in one direction but plenty of clearance when turning the other direction.....so....I noticed the center drag link wasn't centered with the engine and I thought I could get away with adjusting the tie rod ends to get everything centered and have clearance...........so.......I check everything again today and notice that the rotors didn't look like they were turning far enough.......so I start thinking about the turning radius not being sharp enough which would then shorten the drag link travel from side to side..........So.....I check to see where the steering arm stops contact the lower control arm..........Hummm!!.......I measure the Ridetech contact point and it's approx. 2 1/4" from the stop surface to the center of the ball joint..........I get out my stock lower arm and measure it at 1 1/2" ....Hummmmm!!!!.......I'll call Ridetech on Monday.....Better to deal with it now than after the engine is plugged in and all the accessories are on...........Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill again...........
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  #95  
Old 10-26-2013, 07:35 PM
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Beautiful car Ken.

Hope it's a simple fix and when you're done it has a roar like this one.

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  #96  
Old 10-28-2013, 07:44 PM
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Well.......The day started out with me calling Ridetech and asking about the steering stops hitting way before the stock position and this was taking away from the turn radius of the car (again.....from the ball joint C/L to the stop surface on the lower control arm........Stock GM is 1 1/2".........Ridetech 2 1/4 inches.........)I sent pictures as requested and haven't heard anything since............I need to get this resolved so I can modify the pan for drag link clearance if req'd.........

The next issue was the trans cross member.........It seems that when the previous owners added the Turbo 400 trans they did the Hillbilly cut and weld to make it fit......so after looking and figuring out what to do with it.......I decided to make it bolt into the stock frame location and holes......and it ended up that the rubber trans mount ended up right in the middle of the crossmember...........so we made a new detail and cut and welded it together.....brought it home and it fell into place........then..........the new Wilwood Master cylinder showed up.....I knew the old one had some issues ( cause I are Smart)........opened up the new one , Bench bled it for a half hour .........not a hint of air and it seemed this one has more flow to the rear chamber.....so.....I knew this was gonna be easy..........Stick it on the car , bleed the fronts....no problem.......go to do the rear.........Same thing........no pedal drop while bleeding and just a few drops of fluid out of the bleeder and No clamping pressure at all on the rear rotors.........Darn!!!..........Time to start breaking the new lines apart and look for a restriction somewhere...........(a smart person would have probably done that B4 buying a new Master).......I also got the new Holley Pan Baffle assy that was recommended.......























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  #97  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:07 PM
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When I woke up this morning........( Thanks to Greg Weld)......These were the wheels I envisioned on the car.........so....I changed my mind on the wheels I ordered.......Final Pick.....LOL

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  #98  
Old 10-28-2013, 08:56 PM
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Oh hell!! You bought some wheels!! NICE!!!



I was wondering what that other post was about…



I'm beginning to think that you and I are a lot alike (sad thought huh?) -- building is better than "being done". I just love the process -- and the solutions -- and hunting the parts down. Then when they're all done -- it's like a void sets in. Yeah… they're fun to drive… but then I go to the shed and there's nothing for me to stew over.


:>)
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  #99  
Old 10-28-2013, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
Oh hell!! You bought some wheels!! NICE!!!



I was wondering what that other post was about…



I'm beginning to think that you and I are a lot alike (sad thought huh?) -- building is better than "being done". I just love the process -- and the solutions -- and hunting the parts down. Then when they're all done -- it's like a void sets in. Yeah… they're fun to drive… but then I go to the shed and there's nothing for me to stew over.


:>)

Yep!!!
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  #100  
Old 10-29-2013, 08:44 AM
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If you are reusing the hose from the rearend to the hard line they rust up on the inside of the bulkhead. Kevin
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