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Old 12-02-2013, 10:28 AM
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Sieg Sieg is offline
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Thanks for the input Rodger. Greg pointed out the company you're welding those for when we were cruising through Bakertuckey.

That tungsten was violated just as I was finishing the weld. Typically I take it to a point with a little longer bevel than it appears in the photo. I did experiment with putting a slight flat on the point during the session, prefer pointed.

I completely agree with the heat control and it's much more involved than just setting your amperage. I'm going to start practicing/experimenting with pulsed mode/settings on thinner materials. I think that will compliment my lack of talent nicely.

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Old 12-02-2013, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sieg View Post
Thanks for the input Rodger. Greg pointed out the company you're welding those for when we were cruising through Bakertuckey.

That tungsten was violated just as I was finishing the weld. Typically I take it to a point with a little longer bevel than it appears in the photo. I did experiment with putting a slight flat on the point during the session, prefer pointed.

I completely agree with the heat control and it's much more involved than just setting your amperage. I'm going to start practicing/experimenting with pulsed mode/settings on thinner materials. I think that will compliment my lack of talent nicely.
You should sand the tungsten before you take the pic. It makes you look like a pro. HAHAHA


Most of the time the pulse welding on thinner material is better done with the foot pedal. The pulse does not give you a real sense of heat control as more then likely you sheet metal fit on custom panels is not precise around the hole panel and since your margin of error is much tighter on sheetmetal. The pulse works great on thicker stuff that a robot can do as it is a machine fit constant gap. The foot pedal lets you control it much better for each individual weld bead.

For thinner stuff just cut some straight strips and weld them back together with out buckling the material from Heat. Then if you can weld it up and keep it flat and you turn it over and it is fully penetrated your golden.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:17 PM
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You should sand the tungsten before you take the pic. It makes you look like a pro. HAHAHA
I'll grind a stubby and keep it handy for photo ops in the future.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:10 AM
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Ok, I have a confession. I'm a lurker in this thread!

So, here is some TIG love for my fellow welders. Cheers.









Mild steel sanded and then cleaned with a 3M pad. Red electrode, Argon at 12 to 15, Tip ground down to a point with clean 100 grit sanding wheel, and some welding rod I found laying around the shop. 1/4" plate with Amp setting at 100, Foot controlled heat between beads.

And by the way.... Scott you are getting pretty good. Take note everyone, practice, practice, practice.

Last edited by 67zo6Camaro; 12-04-2013 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:16 AM
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And there ya go!!



Nicely done buddy!
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:20 PM
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A couple of my latest practice projects.......







The good and the really ugly on the right due to contamination from trying to retain the rustic nature of the metal.....I ground another 1/8" clearance before doing the left bead.



The fun one.......



Insert 5" of cannon fuse, 1 tablespoon fg black powder, one piece of damp paper towel, then pack the remainder with damp beach sand and stand back.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:57 AM
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I'd actually buy the photo frame if I saw it in an art gallery.


Just one question…. how do you get a photo and some glass in there??



DOH!
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:58 AM
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Sieg,
The frames would be great for awards etc
Are you marketing them?? you can charge Greg
$850 each since he spends everyone elses money

I might be interested in a few

Panteracer Norcal Bob
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