LS Swap headers

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

One thing you guys have to realize is that not everyone can afford to build a $100,000+ car. Some of us have to cut costs when possible.

Obviously, if budget is not a concern or you're building a high end build, you buy the best of everything.

Some people are running $500 headers with no clearance issues, and it's a matter of figuring out what engine/frame mounts and adapter plates they used to fit.

Some of us are pulling LS motors out of junkyard cars and stuffing them in our classics, others are ordering $10,000+ crate motors and letting other people do the work for them. Just food for thought. Don't hate on the people that are budget conscious.

X1000

Originally Posted by Blake Foster

I don't think anyone is hating. obviously budget is the biggest issue to consider on these projects. but IMO you do have to pick where to spend your money, and if ground clearance is imports(the theme of this thread) then you probably have to spend some money. why spend 500.00 on a header that doesn't fit, then spend a 1000.00 to fix the problem when you could have spent the 1000. in the first place.

I didn't think you were hating or anything but in defense of my previous post:

I'm a manufacturing engineer so I've got a little bit experience in the manufacturability/costing of manufactured goods and I know where you are coming from. However; the discrepancy in price is just too much.

What's wrong is that the manufacturers of the "cheap" headers; who obviously have a pricing advantage due to labor and/or volume, don't seem to want to bother to spend a day test fitting and another week making a design and fixture change to make them fit better. If they did, we would only be seeing $1K headers in the magazine builds because no one else would need to buy them. Of course some people would buy the expensive ones for the same reason we buy expensive stuff now, for perceived quality or for a brand. In this case, I; and I'm sure many others, just want something that works.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Fretde

[67Rally]

FWIW, I'm into my current headers for $187.10 (brand new including shipping) plus another $4.95 for some copper RTV sealant. I already had the sledge hammer to beat the tubes into submission, and I installed them myself.

I was just looking to see if any of the mid-price stuff might work with the mounts/x-member I already have. I could always see if a machine shop can mill the flanges to seal better on the heads, and ground clearance is fine.

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This thread isn't about whether $900-1200 is too much for a nice set of stainless steel headers. It's about whether or not there is a cheaper alternative that fits.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

FWIW, I'm into my current headers for $187.10 (brand new including shipping) plus another $4.95 for some copper RTV sealant. I already had the sledge hammer to beat the tubes into submission, and I installed them myself.

I was just looking to see if any of the mid-price stuff might work with the mounts/x-member I already have. I could always see if a machine shop can mill the flanges to seal better on the heads, and ground clearance is fine.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________

This thread isn't about whether $900-1200 is too much for a nice set of stainless steel headers. It's about whether or not there is a cheaper alternative that fits.

Sorry about my part in the hijack. I'm still quite interested in this too and whatever you do decide to do, I'd like to see how it turns out.

[toddoky]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

FWIW, I'm into my current headers for $187.10 (brand new including shipping) plus another $4.95 for some copper RTV sealant. I already had the sledge hammer to beat the tubes into submission, and I installed them myself.

I was just looking to see if any of the mid-price stuff might work with the mounts/x-member I already have. I could always see if a machine shop can mill the flanges to seal better on the heads, and ground clearance is fine.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________

This thread isn't about whether $900-1200 is too much for a nice set of stainless steel headers. It's about whether or not there is a cheaper alternative that fits.

Hey 67Rally, are you open to go with a set of mid-lengths or are you set on long tubes only? There are new mid-length headers out for this swap application from Hooker as well that may fit the bill for you. If you want any specific info on them or photos of their fitment, just send me a PM and I'd be glad to help you out.

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi

Sorry about my part in the hijack. I'm still quite interested in this too and whatever you do decide to do, I'd like to see how it turns out.

No worries, I think we're both looking for the same thing.

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by toddoky

Hey 67Rally, are you open to go with a set of mid-lengths or are you set on long tubes only? There are new mid-length headers out for this swap application from Hooker as well that may fit the bill for you. If you want any specific info on them or photos of their fitment, just send me a PM and I'd be glad to help you out.

I'm looking for long tubes. I made decent power with my current set, and I like the look.

I'm still tempted to borrow a set of your new headers from a friend and mock them up with my mounts/oil pan and see what they look like.

[toddoky]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

I'm looking for long tubes. I made decent power with my current set, and I like the look.

I'm still tempted to borrow a set of your new headers from a friend and mock them up with my mounts/oil pan and see what they look like.

What is the fore/aft position of your engine with your current mounts? The location obtained with the new Hooker mount kit puts the machined front cover surface of an LS engine about 1/4" back from the front wall of the engine crossmember...as long as you are in that same basic position +/- 1/4" the headers will clear your steering box with no problems. I have other fitment photos to reference dimensions from, so just let me know if you need to see anything from my files.

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by toddoky

What is the fore/aft position of your engine with your current mounts? The location obtained with the new Hooker mount kit puts the machined front cover surface of an LS engine about 1/4" back from the front wall of the engine crossmember...as long as you are in that same basic position +/- 1/4" the headers will clear your steering box with no problems. I have other fitment photos to reference dimensions from, so just let me know if you need to see anything from my files.

I'm not locked into an engine position. I'm using Dirty Dingo sliders and an adjustable trans x-member so I can adjust the engine fore/aft 2-3".

[toddoky]

Originally Posted by 67Rally

I'm not locked into an engine position. I'm using Dirty Dingo sliders and an adjustable trans x-member so I can adjust the engine fore/aft 2-3".

Very good. How far off the top of the engine crossmember is the bottom of your block then (the machined oil pan mounting surface)? The new Hooker mounts put that surface 1-5/8" off the top of the engine crossmember. Knowing that dimension of your combination I can better help you determine if your time would be well spent test fitting your friend's new Hooker headers on your car to see if they fit.