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Old 05-26-2014, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkelcy View Post
When I installed my side glass, I used the Electric-Life lifts (purchased years ago), but temporarily powered them with a pretty heavy wire jumped directly to a 12V battery. Having heard about how poor the Electric-Life lifts were, I was impressed with them as I aligned my side windows - the glass zipped up and down.

That got me thinking. I looked at the schematic for the Electric-Life wiring harness and realized that they run the power from switch to switch, so you're trying to push power for the motors through a long and very small pipe. I don't know what the Nu-Relic wiring harness is like, but the Electric-Life harness is not well thought out.

When I finally wired my window lifts I used heavy gauge wire directly from the motors to a dedicated switch for each window set in a center gauge panel. With that huge - and for many impractical - modification, the performance of the motors is quite good and the windows move very quickly. For those of you struggling with Electric-Life windows, you might try feeding them with a heavy gauge wire and see if it's the motor or the harness that's not cutting it. Some rewiring might address your issues.

That said, something that works without modification is always preferable.

Funny you say this because I used a set of Electric Life windows in the 70 Chevelle Convert I finished up last year and had ZERO problems with them. Reading other comments about how slow they moved and springing back, etc.. I had none of that. But I was controlling them through an ISIS InMotion controller so I ran all of my own 14g wiring right up to the motors. Perhaps their issues are more with their control system rather than the window kits themselves.
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