DSE brake booster and MC install

[Empty1]

DSE,
I'm in the process of installing a DSE brake booster and MC in a '71 Firebird, that will have Baer brakes all around. The OE MC used a distributor valve that, as you know, had the two front brake lines and one larger rear brake line attached. The questions are:
How would you recommend I connect the existing brake lines to the DSE MC?
Should I "T" the two front lines and then connect a line to the rear valve of the MC?
If so, do I need to have those loops that the factory had, or do you have picture, drawings or recommendations on how to set this up?
For the rear brake line, I have ordered a proportioning valve, that I understand is to be installed "in-line" and allows for the adjustment of pressure between the front and back. That being said, do I just connect this to the front of the MC and the have the other end connect to the existing rear brake line?
What's the best connectors for the lines, as the rear line won't be long enough to to the proportion valve.
Lastly, do I need the distributor valve at all now, or was this only necessary originally because the OE set up was disk brakes in the front and drum in the rear.
Hope you're able to help, pictures, drawings, etc are helpful for me to be able to visualize.
Mike



Sent from my iPad

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by Empty1

DSE,
I'm in the process of installing a DSE brake booster and MC in a '71 Firebird, that will have Baer brakes all around. The OE MC used a distributor valve that, as you know, had the two front brake lines and one larger rear brake line attached. The questions are:
How would you recommend I connect the existing brake lines to the DSE MC?
Should I "T" the two front lines and then connect a line to the rear valve of the MC?
If so, do I need to have those loops that the factory had, or do you have picture, drawings or recommendations on how to set this up?
For the rear brake line, I have ordered a proportioning valve, that I understand is to be installed "in-line" and allows for the adjustment of pressure between the front and back. That being said, do I just connect this to the front of the MC and the have the other end connect to the existing rear brake line?
What's the best connectors for the lines, as the rear line won't be long enough to to the proportion valve.
Lastly, do I need the distributor valve at all now, or was this only necessary originally because the OE set up was disk brakes in the front and drum in the rear.
Hope you're able to help, pictures, drawings, etc are helpful for me to be able to visualize.
Mike



Sent from my iPad

I now run the tee to the front brakes. Rear port. No loops needed. A few bends should do.

The adjustable prop valve reduces rear line pressure.

If your rear line is too short you can cut it at a location of convenience and add an inverted flare coupler. You will have to reflare the one side.

The factory prop valve is a safety device to warn you of low pessure (leak) and it will still allow hydraulic pressure to the other lines.


Here is one of a Chevelle we are doing. Its tough to see, but the tee is down on the frame and the prop is under the master and the coupler in the frame.

[ma73z]

Does it matter on these which port you use for front/rear? I'm making some lines for my project now and just wanted to throw that out there also.

[Empty1]

Vince, thanks for the response. Exactly what I needed.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

no problem Mike.


On the DSE (Corvette) master cylinder the front port goes to the rear and the rear port goes to the front brakes. Usually the larger piston stroke goes to the front brakes.