Soft springs/big bars set up question...

[DavidBoren]

Thanks for the reply. Building a whole new rear suspension to be balanced with a poorly designed front seems like it would be an effort in futility.

Looks like I need to address the front suspension's downfalls before I worry about the rear.

I need to research aftermarket spindle kingpin angles and aftermarket A-arm caster angles, see if I can find some that match up correctly.

Anyone with first hand knowledge of aftermarket S10 front suspension components that go together with an emphasis on handling? Brands I can trust? Kits designed for function, not just going low for looks...?

[SSLance]

There are a lot of options, both bolt on and custom configured...for that platform. I'm still running the factory spindle but have reworked just about everything else up front on mine and it handles great. The world is your oyster, just depends on how much time and effort you want to put into making the truck handle. You don't necessarily have to spend a lot of money on parts, just make smart choices with your final goal in mind. I did mine in stages but knowing what I know now, if I had to do it again I'd do it right from the start.

[samckitt]

Lance, where is your build thread?

[SSLance]

Uh, which one...

Here's the one on this site

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=43529

This thread probably details the work that Ron Sutton and I did on the car a bit better though.

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/9...hing-out/page3

[samckitt]

LOL. I want to see what you did to front suspension. I currently have the blazer spindles with Vette brakes & adjustable upper A arms I got from SC&C. But using stock lowers A arms. I have some high rate S10 springs, 1LE sway bar & billstein shocks. Thinking of changing lowers & using some tall Howe ball joints.

For rears I have BMR arms, poly/poly, adjustable uppers that I have had for years. Want to go with the Roto joints, looks like I cant just change the joints out, gotta get new arms.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by samckitt

LOL. I want to see what you did to front suspension. I currently have the blazer spindles with Vette brakes & adjustable upper A arms I got from SC&C. But using stock lowers A arms. I have some high rate S10 springs, 1LE sway bar & billstein shocks. Thinking of changing lowers & using some tall Howe ball joints.

For rears I have BMR arms, poly/poly, adjustable uppers that I have had for years. Want to go with the Roto joints, looks like I cant just change the joints out, gotta get new arms.

Scot, give me a Call, I might have an Option for you

T.C.

[DavidBoren]

Awesome. Thank you for the informative replies, gentlemen. I especially appreciate the specifics of what needs to be changed as far as ball joint position. I still have a lot to learn, because there is A LOT to learn pertaining to front suspension design and steering geometry.

I will certainly check out those A-arms from ridetech, thanks for the link, Bret.

Looking at the tru turn system for the G-body, it looks like what I am looking for. Will it work with the S10 spindles you offer? Or would it be better to use factory spindles and get all my drop from adjusting coilovers?

[DavidBoren]

I am definitely trying to do it right the first time with this. And my end goal would be handling corners at speed, with a well-balanced neutral handling suspension.

Most of what I find being sold online, or discussed in forums is drag-your-frame, put-your-dime-on-dubs, bag-it/sag-it bull$#!+ and that is not what I am after. I would like either a kit, or proven combination of parts, geared towards optimizing steering geometry using the factory mounting points.

I can afford a set of $300 lower control arms here, and $300 upper conrrol arms there, maybe some spindles... but I want the parts to influence better cornering at speed... not to just see how low I can go. If that makes sense.

Right now, I am really considering the global west upper and lower control arms, because they are the only manufacturer that mentions making an effort to improve the geometry of the suspension.

Anyone have experience with global west control arms on their S10? Particularly for road racing or autocross?

[bret]

To clarify...

The design of the control arm has NO INFLUENCE on the core front suspension geometry.

The suspension geometry can only be influenced by the control arm attachment point or the ball joint attachment point. Some hotrodders relocate the control arm pivot point...aka the "Guldstrand Modification" where the cross shaft of the upper arm is moved down by some amount.

Other manufacturers move the position of the ball joint via a taller upper and/or lower ball joint, or a taller spindle. We use both methods depending on application. On the G body / S10 we use a taller upper ball joint to improve the camber curve of the suspension. As mentioned above, we want the top of the tire to lean INTO the turn, not away from it. If the attachment points or the effective height of the spindle does not change, neither does the suspension geometry.

Tubular control arms do not change the front end geometry, but they do compliment it.

MUST you use a tubular control arm[s] to compliment the change in ball joint or pivot point location? No, but the best ones offer several other advantages:

1. optimized ball joint position to re-center the ball joint in its travel at a lowered vehicle height to avoid binding
2. upper ball joint moved back to increase caster alignment
3. lower ball joint moved forward to re-center wheel in the wheelwell
4. better bushings. We prefer delrin.
5. redesigned upper cross shaft to allow easier front end alignment
6. lowered coilover mount to allow a longer stroke unit for better ride quality
7. Strength...many oem arms are fatigued and or rusted. Strength typically becomes a problem during braking...that 3800 lbs you are trying to stop from 130mph is trying to twist those arms right out of the car.

Keep firmly in mind that not all tubular control arms resolve all of these issues [some resolve none]. When you find yourself attracted to a set of arms that are priced at less than half of a respected brand, you may want to ask some of these questions of that manufacturer.

[hp2]

Originally Posted by DavidBoren

Most of what I find being sold online, or discussed in forums is drag-your-frame, put-your-dime-on-dubs, bag-it/sag-it bull$#!+ and that is not what I am after. I would like either a kit, or proven combination of parts, geared towards optimizing steering geometry using the factory mounting points.

You need to start looking for/at lower level oval track providers. While you are turning both right and left and may not think it is applicable, there actually are a lot of stock stub oval track cars utilizing soft spring/big bar set ups. Just use their advice as a symetrical set up instead of a left/right bias.