Good source for stainless tubing in different radii?

[mach1stang]

I wish ICE would come out with the 3" kit I contacted them about a while ago!

[Revved]

When I ordered my kit a few months back they said they were considering 3" 4" and 5" kits. I do a lot of 3" intercooler tubing and exhaust as well and would love a 3" kit

[mach1stang]

Originally Posted by Revved

When I ordered my kit a few months back they said they were considering 3" 4" and 5" kits. I do a lot of 3" intercooler tubing and exhaust as well and would love a 3" kit

I've contacted them about a 3"-4"-5" kits for large turbo exhausts, and they said they were working on them and would possibly be releasing them soonish but tat was prolly a year or so ago.

[TheJDMan]

I have used these guys.

http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.c...let/StoreFront

[Solid LT1]

Performance tube in So-Cal and Columbia Mandrel Bending in Oregon are 2 of the most cost effective suppliers of mild steel and 304 stainless steel mandrel bends, if I'm doing something weird.....Burns Stainless but, sit down when getting quote from Burns. If your doing a lot of stainless, you will want to learn about back purging your welds even Solar Flux wont get the job done, only proper back purging. Burns has some good articles on welding stainless, if you using 316 or 321 I hope your a skilled welder, that stuff isnt fun to weld.

[GregWeld]

304 is the best choice for "normal" headers --- 321 is used for "turbo" or really high temp applications and then you'd use 347 filler rod.


Stainless Works sells build kits and parts.

Burns is good - in fact - maybe the best - but like others have said - they know it.

Beware IMPORTED SS tubing - some of it is crap.

[RCC]

http://www.woolfaircraft.com/index.html

[Revved]

Originally Posted by Solid LT1

Performance tube in So-Cal and Columbia Mandrel Bending in Oregon are 2 of the most cost effective suppliers of mild steel and 304 stainless steel mandrel bends, if I'm doing something weird.....Burns Stainless but, sit down when getting quote from Burns. If your doing a lot of stainless, you will want to learn about back purging your welds even Solar Flux wont get the job done, only proper back purging. Burns has some good articles on welding stainless, if you using 316 or 321 I hope your a skilled welder, that stuff isnt fun to weld.

I bought the 6" From Burns at nearly $60 a piece and the rest from Columbia at about $20 piece. Is the Burns stuff nicer... sure... but I cant find anything wrong with the stuff from Columbia either at 1/3" of the price. I'm going to ceramic coat the headers when I'm done so I don't really care about the visual of the material.

I've started tacking it up but killed my last bandsaw blade not realizing my new bandsaw had a high and low gear... I thought I had it turned all the way down but apparently not!! New blades just showed up an hour ago so I'll jump back on it today or Monday.

I was going to start thinking of a way to back purge the tubing when I do start TIG'ing it up. My TIG work has come a long way in the last two years so I'm functional but not artist level. When I bought the new shop building the previous owner left a large tank of Nitrogen- That can be used to back purge right? I haven't priced Nitrogen vs Argon since basically I'll be dumping it on the floor so I don't know which is more cost effective... I know it cost my $50 the other day to exchange my tall Argon tank.

If anyone has picks of a setup they've used to back purge tubing please post it up!

Thanks guys!

Originally Posted by GregWeld

304 is the best choice for "normal" headers --- 321 is used for "turbo" or really high temp applications and then you'd use 347 filler rod.

Good to know... I'll be starting on the Roadster Shop chassis 65 Fastback in a couple months and that is getting a TT Coyote. Everything I've bought for this project was 304

[GregWeld]

You wouldn't find me purging with Nitrogen! Your fit up would have to be PERFECT and you'd have to be a really good welder! Maybe a pro could get away with it but it's nothing I'd try.

Just use ARGON like you're supposed to. Either get a dual regulator so you can have one hose purging and the other to the torch -- or get another bottle of Argon and get a regulator on it. Either way - if you're going to do this kind of work you'll need it set up.

[68Cuda]

Originally Posted by Revved

I'm going to ceramic coat the headers when I'm done so I don't really care about the visual of the material.

Is there a benefit to using stainless if you are going to ceramic coat the headers anyway? I would love to see how these headers turn out. Are you making the primaries equal length?

I love that ICE kit, but for someone like me it is hard to justify the cost to build one set of headers. The kit you have is what, $1500?

Where are you located? DFW is a very vague description and your shop page does not say.