Dodge Charger 500 -70, 6.1 Hemi + manual, Pro-touring project

[68Cuda]

I believe 1.5" offset is correct for B-Body. For the front / rear location and height, make sure you are clearing the steering center-link lock to lock. Do you know the location for the stock engine? I have a Mopar A-body, so I can not be much help, it is a little different. If you move the location of the engine it affects many other pieces, it is a big jigsaw puzzle.

[Riddler]

Here's a great resource. Most of this info is from guys who have running cars and know what works.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...splay.php?f=83

I've got a T56 swap thread there with a list of parts you need. There are also lists of what works and what doesn't. It even goes into what rad is the best and gives part numbers. A company called Champion makes a hemi swap rad and its much cheaper than Modern Muscle.

Riddler

[MikkoV]

Progress...
I ordered 1 5/8 conversion headers from Dougs headers, those were on sale and shipping was reasonable. Fits with original subframe and steering box, and fast ratio pitman & idler arm. Went awfully close to torsion bars so bit of heating and bending was needed



Also have been planning brake setup. Got good deal on used Brembo calibers from 300C /(Magnum) SRT8, so SRT theme continues And ordered new 14" grooved discs from same car.

For rear i got 12,6" vented discs from 300C also.
I noticed earlier that 300c disc fits quite nicely to Charger hub when did brake job for wifes has-been 300C CRD.
Rear calibers? Dunno yet, maybe VW Touareg / Multivan ATE calibers? Quite reasonable priced and meant for disc that sized, and has handbrake in caliber.

Made engine brackets from Jeep ones, use this with new small block engine mount.

Gearbox tunnel also done and painted, and tranmission bracket.




















Also changed timing cover for engine, original was cracked in crash. Sourced one from ebay. Oli filter neck was also broken so opened two connection rod caps and checked bearings, should be first things that damage if engine has run without oil pressure, all like new so back together.


One question related to this. Ordered 4 connection rod bolts because of this, these are torqued to yield. Part number has changed and bolt design also. New bolts are 2gram lighter than original, so bottom end balance is now 8 gram of from factory balance. Should i worry about this?





Next?

Brake and fuel line assembly, what else should i mount before engine and transmission go back in for the last time. I need to move this to floor now from my 2-pillar lift.