Accusump Plumbing

[carbuff]

I thought I would share my plan here and solicit any feedback before I'm too far committed...

I'm adding an Accusump to my oil system to hopefully help prevent any future oil pressure drops. I've gone back and forth on the best way to mount and route everything. I've spoken to Canton a couple of times, and Gerno and I have been going back and forth since he is doing the same thing with a slightly different setup.

My initial thought, after researching some LS and Corvette forums, was to use the metric plug at the front of the engine which feeds directly into the oil galley, right after the oil pump outlet. This would be a very convenient place to tap into with just a single adapter and hose from the Accusump itself. I thought I was done...

After much more research, there is a lot of mixed thoughts on this topic. But general consensus and the word from Canton themselves is that you want to feed the Accusump with a supply of oil that has already been filtered. Additionally, Canton suggests, although doesn't require, a check valve in the system. It seems questionable as to whether the oil pump itself is the best option to act as that check valve.

I found several people that suggest the oil filter itself can act at the check valve. That makes sense, as they have one internally. Currently, I'm just using the filter on the block in the stock location. The problem with that is that I don't have good access to a port after the filter. I would have to replace the Mocal thermostat which I use (not desirable) or tap into the oil pressure port on the valley cover (also not desirable, purely from a line routing issue in my case).

So I've decided that I will add an external oil filter. It's a good idea anyway for me to filter before the cooler, and I can use a larger filter vs. the small one the stock LS location uses. As I've been thinking about it, I'm actually leaning towards using them both. I don't see a real concern about doing this, unless it causes too much pressure drop in my system. I'll monitor this and see once I have it all together. But if I use an external filter with a higher particle rating (ie: it catches less debris), then having the second filter with a smaller particle rating may be a good thing in general.

The other issue for me is packaging. I have the perfect spot to mount the Accusump right in front of the engine behind and below the radiator. I'll make some mounts which attach to the cross tube which contains the sway bar. It will point directly towards my oil lines to and from the cooler, making the tee easy.

Mounting the external filter will be tricky. I want to frame mount it right in the path of my current lines, but there isn't a great spot where I have clearance under the frame rails between the sway bar and the lower control arms. I'm going to try and mount it such that it's basically beside the rack and pinion gear, but that's going to put it above the LCA mount. I may run a shorter than suggested filter here, which is another reason I like the 2 filter idea.

With all of that, here is the list of items I'll be adding:

• 3-quart Accusump #24-006
• 35-40 PSI Electric Pressure Control Valve Kit #24-273
• Canton's Billet mounting clamps #24-210
• A.R.E Oil Filter Mount #4010
• Fragola 90* -10AN Hose Ends #109010-BL
• Fragola -10AN Tee Adapter #482610-BL
• Fragola -10AN Straight Hose Ends #100110-BL

There's more, but that's the most of it. Here are a couple of pictures of what I'm using:



(I'm going to coat this thing black instead of leaving it blue)







The adapter fittings are all black now.

Now, here is my plumbing plan. I'll explain it after the picture:



Oil will travel from the pump through the galley in the side of the block to the Mocal thermostat output. That line will connect to the input of the oil filter mount. The output of the filter will go through the core support and to the input (top) of the oil cooler. Oil exiting the cooler on the bottom will travel back through the core support to a -10AN tee fitting. The Accusump input/output will connect to the tee also. The output of the tee will feed back to the input of the Mocal. The oil will then go back through the galley of the block and into the stock-location oil filter. Oil finally exits that filter and enters the block.

This seems the best path that I've come up with. The one question I've not gotten a clear answer to is whether to feed the oil cooler from the bottom or the top. My cooler is a 2-pass cooler with both fittings on the same side. PRC who made it says it's up to me, that they don't specify top or bottom input. I could argue it either way.

I plan to change the location of the pressure control switch for the Accusump. They have a fitting to mount it to the valve of the Accusump such that it measures input right at the Accusump. I, instead, plan to mount the switch on the 1/8" NPT fitting of the filter mount which taps into the filter output. This way, if the pressure ever varies there, the Accusump can immediately enable the valve to pressurize the line. Canton agreed this was a good approach, but it's not obvious how much of a difference it would make. The switch will be before the oil cooler, and the valve after.

I'm going to wire up the signals to the pressure switch to be supplied from a Bosch relay that is controlled by my Holley HP EFI. I will enable the relay in 2 cases:

• Power on, but RPM < 450 (engine not running or starting)
• Engine running and RPM above 2000

I'm doing this because the expected oil pressure at idle will probably be < the 35-40 PSI threshold of the pressure switch. Thus, I want to engage the Accusump when I know pressure should be above that threshold. The first condition will allow the Accusump to perform pre-lube duties also.

Finally, here is a picture of where I plan to install things. Like my MS Paint-work?



That's my plan. I've read a lot of threads on pre-lube and Accusumps now, and I think that pulling all of that information together into this should be a good plan. As always, comments welcome.

[glassman]

I'll obviously be watching this. Learned a thing or two just reading this. But, i'm seriously interested in doing something like this too mine....track time baby!!!

[Vegas69]

Bryan, I'd utilize a one way valve on the cooler side of your T. I believe Earl's or Russell makes the one that I used. I'm not 100%, but I think my system was plumbed to filter the oil after it circulated through the t stat, cooler, accumulator. Is it the best way for cooler, tstat, accumulator longevity, probably not. If it saves connections and hoses, maybe it's a good trade off? Lastly, Moroso makes aluminum accumulators to avoid any powder coating needed.

Here's the check valve: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...0erl/overview/
The one I used was aluminum colored. Just make sure it's compatible with oils.

[carbuff]

Todd,

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Bryan, I'd utilize a one way valve on the cooler side of your T. I believe Earl's or Russell makes the one that I used.

Here's the check valve: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...0erl/overview/
The one I used was aluminum colored. Just make sure it's compatible with oils.

Canton suggests one in their generic diagram from the tech section on their website, but when I spoke to them, they stated the check valve was optional. I didn't like the one they offer at all: it seems as if it would be very restrictive. I wasn't sure if one like you linked to above would be an appropriate option. Most of those which I've found are listed for fuel, but no mention of oil. I will go research those some more, but with the check valve in the filter, I'm not sure it's necessary...

Originally Posted by Vegas69

I'm not 100%, but I think my system was plumbed to filter the oil after it circulated through the t stat, cooler, accumulator. Is it the best way for cooler, tstat, accumulator longevity, probably not. If it saves connections and hoses, maybe it's a good trade off?

Trying to keep the number of lines and fittings, and also the number of turns in the path of the oil, down is definitely one of my goals. I think that I can add the external filter inline and then the tee on the return side with a reasonably low number of fittings and ends. I was considering putting the filter on the return line from the cooler and attaching the tee directly to it, which would save some fittings. But after looking at everything in the engine compartment yesterday with Eric, there isn't a great place to do this which will be accessible and not require even more hose and fittings. You can see that in the picture above. The 45* kink in the frame rail would be the perfect spot for this except that: a) it's too short, and b) it's too close to the radiator for it to fit. I had hoped to put the filter there...

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Lastly, Moroso makes aluminum accumulators to avoid any powder coating needed.

For primarily vanity reasons, I'm going to PC mine black to 'hide' it in the engine compartment and keep with the clean black/brushed aluminum theme under the hood. I ordered the Accusump through Ron Sutton, who convinced Canton to send me one which is not assembled to make the process easier. Ron tried to convince Canton that there was enough of a market for units of a different color than blue, but unfortunately they didn't think it was worth their effort to offer a black unit. We tried...

Thanx for the advice. I will check further into the check valves for sure.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by carbuff

Ron tried to convince Canton that there was enough of a market for units of a different color than blue, but unfortunately they didn't think it was worth their effort to offer a black unit. We tried...

This stuff is made for RACE CARS --- Racers don't care about being all color coordinated....


FYI - the one in the Lotus is electrically operated.... with the ignition switch.


The one in the Mustang is a manual valve on the tunnel by the driver seat. I kind of like the electric version in the Lotus because with all the other "stuff" going on - sometimes I forget about the valve.

I open it before cranking - watch the pressure go up - then fire off..... I don't close it then until I'm done with the event and finished. I close it just before I shut down. These race cars SIT for awhile between events --- and I feel better about a quick pre-lube after that prolonged down time.

Personally I think you're making it too complicated - but that's your deal. It's really just there as an emergency back up / momentary oil pressure loss... I don't see the need of an additional filter and all the other stuff. It's just a simple in and out pressure vessel. A lot of the race guys put a big red low oil pressure light on the dash somewhere, as most of the time we're way too busy to be checking the gauge constantly. I glance at mine (if I remember to) on the straightaways only.

[Vegas69]

The check valve is simply a flapper. They aren't restrictive and the one I used was fine for oil. I didn't trust an oil filter for back flow protection. Not all filters have a back flow valve so make sure you get the right filter.

I had great success with my accumulator. Just make sure your oil pan is your first line of defense. An accumulator is simply the back up plan.

[GregWeld]

Check Accusumps installation guide - page 3 in the link provided here.


This is really ALL that is necessary for what these do. When the small amount of pressure stored in the Accusump is done... it's done! This takes very little time to bleed off. It reestablishes pressure quickly if the pump and pressure in the motor is operating properly... but it's not like you can go on driving with low oil pressure.


http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/instructions.pdf

[carbuff]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

The check valve is simply a flapper. They aren't restrictive and the one I used was fine for oil. I didn't trust an oil filter for back flow protection. Not all filters have a back flow valve so make sure you get the right filter.

Agreed. I've been researching oil filters today also of all things... I tend to agree with not trusting the filter, so I'm looking at the valves now too. Seems you can use them for oil as well, at least a couple of them are listed that way.

Originally Posted by Vegas69

I had great success with my accumulator. Just make sure your oil pan is your first line of defense. An accumulator is simply the back up plan.

I am running a Champ LS pan that has the 4 diagonal baffles in it. I've learned a few things which I was doing that were wrong before that caused part of my problem, one of the biggest being having my catch can lines routed backwards such that I was sucking oil into the engine, causing my oil level to fall... Not smart.

Originally Posted by GregWeld

This stuff is made for RACE CARS --- Racers don't care about being all color coordinated....

Yeah, yeah... That racecar Ron Sutton fellow is making the leap, why can't the suppliers also? ;-)

Originally Posted by GregWeld

FYI - the one in the Lotus is electrically operated.... with the ignition switch.

The reason I can't do that alone is that the EPC I'm using will be set to open at a pressure above my idle oil pressure. Thus at idle, when sitting in traffic for example, the Accusump will dump most of its oil into the pan. For a track car you would rarely be in that condition, so it's not really a concern (Canton said the same). But for a car that sees a lot more of its miles on the street as opposed to the track, that's not the best option. Thus the control from the HP EFI.

Canton does have a 25-30 PSI switch, but they suggested I'd be better off with the protection from the higher pressure switch, and I tend to agree.

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Personally I think you're making it too complicated - but that's your deal.

Never been told that before...

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Check Accusumps installation guide - page 3 in the link provided here.

This is really ALL that is necessary for what these do.

Agreed. In reality, that's the same circuit that I drew above, except their thermostat is after the filter instead of before it. Otherwise I'm looking to tee in the Accusump after the cooler and before returning to the block like they show. And I'm going to run the electric pressure control valve and solenoid. I just now need to decide if the check valve is worthwhile to add or not...

[carbuff]

One other related question. Maybe I should ask this in another thread, but we'll see if anyone here knows...

I'm considering ways to prime the LS before I try and start it this time. I'm sure that spinning it for a long time trying to build pressure in the external cooler and lines didn't help my bearing problem, especially since it had sat for so long. I'd rather not do the same thing this time.

Any suggestions for ways to prime this thing? One idea I have is to use the oil galley port on the front of the block that I wanted to run the Accusump into, add a metric to AN fitting there and put an AN cap on it. But when I need to prime the system, like the first time or after an oil change, I could remove the cap and figure out a way to pump oil into it, to at least fill the lines and cooler.

Has anyone done this, or have another way to get oil into the system without spinning the motor? My lines and cooler hold at least a quart, and it took a good while to get pressure up the last time when we were spinning it all...

[GregWeld]

AH HA --- I didn't think you'd run it on the street -- just close the valve and let it sit there. Only requiring it or operating it with track use.


I don't have all that fancy pants coolers with thermostats.... Charlie and I cover our coolers with duct tape for the first session... It's a real complicated system like that. LOL


You see that cooler siting right in front there --- 3 short strips of duct tape acts as a thermostat.... No wonder I like these track only cars!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA


Never mind the fat guy over there playing with that foreign car.... It's all electronic and needs nothing but a driver. One day I'll find one.