Accusump Plumbing

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by carbuff

I hope everything is ok on the inside. Take a close look at your oil during the next change...

Regarding the gauge / blowoff valve problem, for the USCA event I just removed the gauge and plugged the hole. I used a tire pressure gauge to set the precharge. I've purchased a new gauge which I hope will be of better quality that I will be installing on Wednesday. I'll know if it works better by Friday I hope since I have a track day that day. I'll be keeping a close eye on the gauge between runs...

I wonder if you can incorporate a fluid isolater like the fuel gauge set ups or just go with an electric gauge. It would be a shame to lose an engine because of something that is supposed to protect it.

[carbuff]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

I wonder if you can incorporate a fluid isolater like the fuel gauge set ups or just go with an electric gauge. It would be a shame to lose an engine because of something that is supposed to protect it.

I think I could, but I believe the real problem was just a cheap gauge. But you just gave me an idea to consider. I have a couple of free inputs on my Holley HP EFI controller. I'm not sure if I can do this, but I may see if I can add a pressure sensor on the air side of the Accusump where the gauge attaches and then wire that into the Holley. I have a warning light on my dash, so I believe I could turn that on if the Accusump air pressure went to 0.

[Sonar Chief]

Brian ... good reading here, did you replace the gauge yet? Also, how did you keep the air side of the canister higher than the oil side with those clamps you installed on the sway bar?

Michael

[carbuff]

I haven't had the chance to replace the plug with the new gauge yet. Hope to do that soon. I have several small, and some not-so-small, projects to do, and this is one of them. I can tell whether it is holding pressure by turning the switch on and watching for pressure before turning the engine over, and so far it's ok.

Regarding the canister itself, I didn't make an effort to keep the air side higher. Right or wrong, I have it effectively parallel to the ground. I could have staggered it a little, perhaps by milling the billet clamps. That would have put the canister in a bind though if I had done much, so there likely would have been no advantage to doing so.

But so far it seems to be working ok.

[LS3 HQ]

Good thread guys. My brother is running the Moroso one in his drift car with an LS1. I've done a few autocross events with it now and a couple of times have forgotten to open the valve. Maybe the electric solenoid to turn it on would be the way to go.

After watching that video I'm a little confused. I think I've been told differently about how to use them and when. I've been told to start the car with the valve closed then open when engine is running before going out on the track then close just before shutting off to avoid starting the car again with a sump full of oil. Did that guy in the video open the valve before "starting" the car then once the engine got pressure the oil flowed back into the accumulator?

I was of the understanding that you open the valve, extra oil goes into your engine and stayed there until you shut the valve. Appears they work a bit differently.

Am I right in thinking I could have one in my Camaro, that will see more street than track turn on with the key and it will really only do it's job on the track?

Cheers

Luke

[carbuff]

The purpose of opening the valve before starting the engine is to pre-lube everything before you spin the crank. That helps prevent metal on bearing friction and wear.

If the oil pump is creating a higher pressure than the electric pressure valve is set for, then you will be refilling the cylinder until it achieves a balance in the system.

So in my case, my idle pressure is about 38# hot. That's just over the 36# pressure valve in my system, but a little close for comfort. So I use my Holley to send +12V to the valve above 1400 rpm where I know pressure is above 40#. That guarantees the cylinder is not discharging during normal driving. As I rev the motor, and the pressure goes higher, more pressure builds up in the cylinder but is not discharged until the pressure is below 36#.

Now, in your case if you are using a manual valve, that is different I believe. You could still open the valve to prelube, but you might not want it open all the time in day to day driving. I really don't know what the best answer is in that situation...