|

10-20-2015, 05:59 PM
|
Lateral-g Supporting Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dunwoody, GA
Posts: 6,554
Thanks: 1,423
Thanked 827 Times in 625 Posts
|
|
That's part of the reason I zeroed in on the pinion angle as my first guess. The RPM difference between 3.42 and 3.90s at 60 isn't great so I'm not certain but I'm confident.
__________________
Trey
Current rides: 2000 BMW 540i/6 and 86 C10.
Former ride: 1979 Trans Am WS6: LT1/T56, Kore 3 C5/6 brakes, BMW 18in rims
|

10-20-2015, 08:14 PM
|
 |
Lateral-g Supporting Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AriDzona
Posts: 20,741
Thanks: 504
Thanked 1,080 Times in 388 Posts
|
|
You're not the only one that has issues with this stuff. I know Sieg chased a driveline vibration for days - trying minute angle changes until it was gone or mostly gone.
It can be other things too --- too much yoke stick out.... Driveline balance... a tire(s). But from what you said your set up was -- you need to sort that out first. And THEN buy a seat!! LOL
|

10-20-2015, 08:16 PM
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Dawsonville Georgia
Posts: 2,249
Thanks: 645
Thanked 177 Times in 120 Posts
|
|
Trey, Greg is correct. Get the pinion side of your rear up, ideally at the same angle as your tranny is down. If tranny is down 2.5, your rear should be up in the front close to the same, as to run parallel. It's best to find these numbers with your cars frame as close to level to your shops floor, as possible. If a vehicle has a rake to it, for instance, you'd always get a false starting point number from your smart level...of course parallel is parallel.
Leaf spring cars "like" the pinion down a bit more than a link car, because of the movement the rear sees during acceleration. Especially leaf spring drag cars. Get some shims, and it should fix your problem.
|

10-26-2015, 04:23 AM
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Dawsonville Georgia
Posts: 2,249
Thanks: 645
Thanked 177 Times in 120 Posts
|
|
Trey, check out the video link in open discussion, titled driveshaft phasing.
|

10-26-2015, 09:16 AM
|
Lateral-g Supporting Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dunwoody, GA
Posts: 6,554
Thanks: 1,423
Thanked 827 Times in 625 Posts
|
|
I saw it and plan to watch it when I get home. Thanks, Scott.
I got the 4* shims in over the weekend. The pinion is now just under 1* up. I didn't get time to test it out due to my sister having her third baby last night. I also think I need to realign the rear before I get it up to speed to see how it reacts. I think I measured wrong when I was reassembling everything. Hopefully, in a few days I can try it out.
Thanks
__________________
Trey
Current rides: 2000 BMW 540i/6 and 86 C10.
Former ride: 1979 Trans Am WS6: LT1/T56, Kore 3 C5/6 brakes, BMW 18in rims
|

10-26-2015, 10:43 AM
|
 |
Moderator
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pacific Northwet
Posts: 8,034
Thanks: 33
Thanked 101 Times in 41 Posts
|
|
When you're certain the housing is square in the chassis mark the spring and perch on both sides with a paint pen for future reference.
|

10-26-2015, 11:47 AM
|
Lateral-g Supporting Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dunwoody, GA
Posts: 6,554
Thanks: 1,423
Thanked 827 Times in 625 Posts
|
|
Now I feel dumb, lol. Such a simple idea. Thanks Scott. I'll do it!
__________________
Trey
Current rides: 2000 BMW 540i/6 and 86 C10.
Former ride: 1979 Trans Am WS6: LT1/T56, Kore 3 C5/6 brakes, BMW 18in rims
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:06 AM.
|