1967 Mustang Convertible Pro-Touring project

[cjsgarage]

Thanks Trey!! Yeah. Despite the fact that it wont be getting any kind of height adjustment or wheel housing adjustments or suspension upgrade, I still think it's going to turn out cool. He seems really excited about it.

[cjsgarage]

Dangit, Donny. I pushed another big order through Summit last night, and the caulk didn't make it on there.

Mike did come to the rescue, though. He's the glassman because he did auto glass for YEARS. His company still does residential and commercial glass of all kinds, but sadly.. no more auto glass.
Mike, I did end up calling Jason yesterday. They actually recommended butyl, which is why I sent you a text. Thanks for saving the day. After I finish my production work, I'll get back on the fuel tank mounting.

[cjsgarage]

Mike, I haven't forgotten about your wiring, either. I have a few phone calls to place about a MIL SPEC connector and some flame-proof sheathing. You know Jeff with the Datsun 240z? He had some stuff to add to my order. I guess his dad's place was in the Sonora fires and he lost everything. couple LS engines, wiring stuff, etc, etc. He said if it was aluminum, it was a puddle. Insurance only credited his dad 50k. What a racket. Someone on here start an insurance company.. we need some more good people in that industry.


In other news, I did get the front brakes on the car.. but posting pictures is a long task. They have to go up on Photobucket before they can come over here, and I fell asleep trying to put them up. So a day late or more, but here you go! Progress!

[cjsgarage]

I started out with this:


No one wants to stop on drums brakes anymore.. and they're made for the 6 cylinder, so that's probably not going to work, either.



Pulled the drum and here we are. What's cool about a 1966 and up Mustang is that they wear the same spindles for V8 and 6 cylinder.







So tear all the brakes off, including the lines and you're left with a bare spindle. Ewww. Naked.



This is the attachment for the new 4 piston calipers. It slips on behind the backing plate.



I bought Summit brakes, because I know that they're really just rebranded SSBC.



If you haven't bought one of these tools, it will change your life. Not really, but you wont have to pack bearings against your palms and end up looking like a toddler after a bad spaghetti episode.



Tap the wheel seal in and install the front bearing, washer, spindle nut and cotter pin after setting bearing lash.

[cjsgarage]

Okay. Rotors on, backing plates on.. calipers.

These Mustangs have weird (to me) caliper attachments. Instead of a banjo bolt, they thread directly into the caliper. One washer.




Toss them on there with a little bit of blue Loctite, slip the pads in and install the pad retainers.



Pretty good, methinks.

[cjsgarage]

This was supposed to be an easy car..

I got involved with this car because I thought it would be a mostly bolt-on deal. I didn't really need another full-tilt project.. I needed to straighten out some stuff with work and I had just enough time to compile a list of parts and install them and send it on it's way. Not my luck, I guess.

The headers didn't fit the late model AOD-E. The transmission mount I ordered hit the transmission case, and is way too low still. The bolt-on exhaust for a 1967 Mustang hits the driveshaft tunnel.. so it needed to be cut down. The aftermarket wiring didn't accomodate any kind of electronic shifting.. and didn't use a MAF sensor. I couldn't find someone who made an alternator only accessory drive that had a water pump pulley with ribs..

etc., etc.
Nature of the game, right? If I can figure out photobucket links, I'll show you some of what has kept me busy and how this Mustang has been coming along..

[cjsgarage]

Here's a shot of welding stainless bungs into the headers. These are headers for a 1967 Mustang with a 302, but they're obviously not purposed for fuel injection. I needed a spot to put the oxygen sensors.

[cjsgarage]

Bam. Photo works.

Okay. Let's post up some more. (This way I don't have to upload them to lateral-g AND photobucket.)

I took a pie slice out of each header, to move it away from the block.


This is after the final pie cut, they fit pretty good.


It clears the shifter linkage now.


and here's where it clears the passenger side


the view from underneath after my friend and I welded the pie slices together..

[cjsgarage]

This is the transmission mount post welding. If you notice the tube is welded all the way to one side of the mount bracket. I installed it after I shot some black epoxy paint on it.. but I'm going to need to raise it. The driveshaft angle looks much better and the transmission pan is much more level to the car if I raise the transmission another inch. I hate when parts don't fit.

[cjsgarage]

This is where I made a quick slice in the x-pipe. This was necessary because the tunnel that the exhaust and driveshaft run through wasn't wide enough to fit the "bolt-in" exhaust.


This is how much I had to take out of it to make it fit in there.


I have never TIG welded before, so I had to grind down the welds on the headers. After globbing on the stuff there, I think I actually got the idea behind it. Vince, maybe you can input here (or anyone else who does it and can hand out some pointers). I'll take some photos when I weld up the x-pipe, and we'll see how much improvement I make. I think the torch part of the welder is more to "push" the weld along. The stick is just to feed enough in to keep the puddle going.
It's not like MIG. MIG welding I usually push the puddle along with the wire that's being fed through the gun.. since the fed wire has the voltage passing through it. I guess it makes sense then, now that I type it out, that the TORCH pushes the puddles along since the torch on a TIG has the voltage running through it.