Want to go wider fronts

[raustinss]

Id have to say Steve just toss the spindles in the scrap bin....then pick them out and send them my way lol, swinging by DaSilva Friday afternoon...hope to see your car there

[Vega$69]

With a 7" backspace the tie rods may hit the inside of an 18" wheel if you have a stepped lip like Forgeline. Also the issues with a 7" bs is the wheels may hit the arms. You can add a stop on the steering arm but this will cost you steering radius.

Some some things to consider.

[Sheck44]

John, this is exactly what I want to avoid, and looking for steering arm/tie rod options

Thanks
Steve

[johnnysuede23]

I'm not familiar with the ATX spindles however when I was looking around for steering arms to use on my ridetech spindles I found a few that could be made to work. The top one is a regular GM steering arm and the other 2 are made by speedway. They will need some work to fit a GM spindle. They are designed to be used with metric impala spindle they sell, bolt spacing is the same however the bolting surfaces are different and would need to be shimmed, also not sure if they would clear the top of a ball joint stud.

[mfain]

I ended up making my own out of 7075. I am set up for 12.5 inch wheels with 9 inch backspacing.

Pappy

[JKnight]

Damn Pappy, that's great. What are the details of your setup? Control arms and such...geometry still worked out nicely? I assume it did knowing a little about your projects, but figured I'd ask.

[mfain]

Originally Posted by JKnight

Damn Pappy, that's great. What are the details of your setup? Control arms and such...geometry still worked out nicely? I assume it did knowing a little about your projects, but figured I'd ask.

Thanks. That is part of the high travel, low roll suspension (heavily influenced by Ron Sutton) on my 56 Corvette track car. Fabricated, long control arms with a Sweet rack. The trick to getting enough wheel turn with lots of travel and a 9 inch backspace (for reduced scrub) was the fact that the short rack is mounted high (to achieve the right bumpsteer) which put the outer tie rod ends on top of the steering arms. This put them closer to the center of the barrel of the wheel (vertically) which allowed more degrees of turn (28 degrees) before the tie rod hit the rim during full compression. Lots of computations and trial and error - but it worked out the way I wanted. Once you get the tie rod clearance worked out, I suggest you remove the springs, drop the nose of the car to the fully compressed attitude, and turn the wheels full in each direction. It is common, with very deep offsets and depending on the amount of caster you have dialed in and how much, if any caster gain you get with compression, for the rim to hit either control arm. I actually built a plywood mock-up tire and wheel to use as a clearance gauge.

Pappy