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  #11  
Old 03-18-2016, 10:29 PM
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Maybe it's a combo of aluminum flywheel and 231/236 cam. Little too "race car" for me. I want it smooth like a new vette
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2016, 12:34 PM
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McLeod 75xxx series single disc clutches are 2400lb static pressure plate. McLeod 69xx-xx series twin disc clutches have a 1900lb static pressure plate.

The RST is organic disc for street tires and the RXT has pucks on both discs intended for sticky or drag radial tires.
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2016, 06:06 PM
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You may like our DYAD system, John. Its capable of holding much more power than you are currently putting down, and the pedal pressure is as soft, or even softer than stock in some applications. It a great option for performance cars that are still driven on the street!

Last edited by Centerforce; 03-21-2016 at 06:08 PM.
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2016, 06:46 AM
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Centerforce DYAD in Hellfire is very easy pedal pressure and seems to handle high hp just fine.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clill View Post
Centerforce DYAD in Hellfire is very easy pedal pressure and seems to handle high hp just fine.
Its been tested to hold about 1300 ft/lbs to the crank, so the DYAD can work for pretty much everyone!
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  #16  
Old 03-28-2016, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John510 View Post
Maybe it's a combo of aluminum flywheel and 231/236 cam. Little too "race car" for me. I want it smooth like a new vette
I'm wondering if you don't have something else going on John? That cam is not huge, and it only takes a little extra rev to get it going when street driving. If you're stalling it could be your tune, or characteristic of your intake / dual TB / cam / airflow reversion application. I'd check with Zen Master Vince before dropping a couple Gs and finding out you took out a brand new clutch for nuttin'.

McLeod RST w Alum flywheel here. Works great.
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  #17  
Old 03-28-2016, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John510 View Post
Hey Guys,
Im looking for some clutch reviews. I installed a RAM Force and it is a PITA to drive. Have to rev it super high to avoid stalling. I am looking to replace it with a more "factory feel" clutch. Something smooth and easy but also wont get burnt up with 527rwhp.

What do you recommend?

John
We have been building aluminum flywheel drivelines for over 20 years. Running an aluminum flywheel needs proper gearing so you don't need to constantly over rev to take off.

What is your 1st gear transmission ratio, differential gearing, and rear tire size?
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  #18  
Old 04-04-2016, 10:26 PM
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Not sure on 1st gear. It is a T56 from a 2000 Camaro and I am running 3.75 rear gear ratio with true trac. Rear tire is a 19" wheel with 35 series tire

I'm taking the car to a professional sometime this week. I would guess that whoever installed it probably didn't do it right based on all the other BS wrong with my car.

And Ron,
Vince doesn't have room for it right now. I was going to take it over to Steve at EBMC to fix
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68 Camaro "Bloodline". OZMO Twin DBW LS3 with TSP 231/236 cam, Speedtech frame, Ridetech coilovers, Chassisworks G Billet/Fab 9, Asanti 19's, Fesler brakes, Carbon Anvil everything, etc.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

65 Fastback "Maddo" @ Meanstreets Performance. Ridetech, crate 306/T5, tubbed, Forgeline

Last edited by John510; 04-04-2016 at 10:30 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-05-2016, 07:45 AM
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You may also check your pedal ratio and for binding in the linkage. I hated my clutch then moved the linkage 1/4" down and it made all the difference in the world. Now I love my clutch. The movement did help a lot with the overall ratio for pressure and travel and also free'd the master from some binding I didn't even know was occurring. Fixing the binding was the biggest gain I assume.
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  #20  
Old 04-05-2016, 09:18 AM
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I have run different clutches over time .And the one I have had the most luck with is a Center Force clutch with a steel flywheel.And I run this in my 1979 Z-28 RS Camaro Pro-touring car with a 500 HP plus Supercharged Small block Chevy.
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