Rack&Pinion

[King Nothing]

My apologies guys, I should've stated that in the first post. I am going for a pro-touring style build, I'll autoX the car and do road courses also. The car will be driven on the street for weekend cruises and car shows. I plan to run at least 12" rotors up front with either 17" or 18" wheels.

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by King Nothing

My apologies guys, I should've stated that in the first post. I am going for a pro-touring style build, I'll autoX the car and do road courses also. The car will be driven on the street for weekend cruises and car shows. I plan to run at least 12" rotors up front with either 17" or 18" wheels.

Gotcha. My suggestion would be ...
A. If, and only if, you swap in an aftermarket clip at some time, would I run a rack, so it is designed in.
B. Otherwise, with your stock clip, I'd simply update the old steering box to a new 670 Series steering box with the ratio & feel (determined by the servo torsion size).

This series 670 box was designed by Delphi & manufactured by Saginaw. It is light years ahead of the old Saginaw steering boxes in both design and materials. Steering will be tighter longer. Their new design will allow you to pick ratio & feel separately, using rack & pinion style torsion bar technology.

You can get a brand new, 12-1 ratio / .210" T-Bar (Medium-light feel) blueprinted box that bolts into your car for $749. You'll need an adapter rag joint or u-joint. (Rag joint for street driver only / U-joint for performance).


If your steering system needs better ...
* Bumpsteer: I'd buy or make a bumpsteer kit to correct it ... and/or ... possibly change the center link to help achieve the bumpsteer target
* Ackerman: some gain can be had by converting to an aftermarket centerlink & rod end style tie rods ... with spacers moving the inner tire rod pivots points.

[King Nothing]

And running larger brakes and tires can be done with the stock subframe? Would the tires clear the subframe on a full clock to the left or right? I'm not worried about the fenders because they will be flared.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by King Nothing

And running larger breaks and tires can be done with the stock subframe? Would the tires clear the subframe on a full clock to the left or right? I'm not worried about the fenders because they will be flared.

I think you need to define larger. What size tire and wheel width/diameter are you calling larger?

Don

[King Nothing]

Originally Posted by dhutton

I think you need to define larger. What size tire and wheel width/diameter are you calling larger?

Don

The smallest would be 17x9 wheel and tire would be 275/40/17, the largest would be a18x10 wheel with a 295/35/18 wheel.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by King Nothing

The smallest would be 17x8 wheel and tire would be 275/40/17, the largest would be a18x10 wheel with a 295/35/18 wheel.

I don't think you can put a 275 tire on an 8 inch rim. Needs a minimum of 9 as far as I know. Anyway you can fit a 275 tire on a stock subframe using the Ridetech Tru-Turn setup if you nail the back spacing. 295 means an aftermarket subframe and most likely widened inner fenders as far as I know.

Don

[King Nothing]

Originally Posted by dhutton

I don't think you can put a 275 tire on an 8 inch rim. Needs a minimum of 9 as far as I know. Anyway you can fit a 275 tire on a stock subframe using the Ridetech Tru-Turn setup if you nail the back spacing. 295 means an aftermarket subframe and most likely widened inner fenders as far as I know.

Don

I meant 17x9 lol