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  #41  
Old 07-14-2016, 01:54 PM
dukeboy_318 dukeboy_318 is offline
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Originally Posted by 68Cuda View Post
Yes, it will turn lock to lock without touching the frame. I think somewhere around 275 you will start to rub the frame, not that it really affects the turn radius that much. I have seen 285 with clearance notched into the frame rails.

Dukeboy - suspension is just modified stock. 1.12" T-bars, tubular control arms, aftermarket strut rod on the front. Rear is monoleaf with Caltracs for now. After I get it running I will increase the front sway bar, see if I need a rear bar and go from there. I have heard good and bad regarding Caltracs. I'll see how it fares before I pass judgement, this is not a car that I am looking to compete at the pro or national level with. I just want it to work well, behave predictably, and have fun with it at the local level.

Following is a series of pictures of the fender modification.

First picture - no clearance, literally rubs on turn in. Second picture is the first cut of the pie cut, silver sharpie mark shows where second cut will be. Third picture is after pie cut is removed and lip is pushed forward. Fourth is after tack welds. Fifth is after rough body work is finished. And the last picture shows the minimum clearance after. The rear of the tire is close to the fender bolt, but running a button head there takes care of that issue along with good strut rods.
looks good, i'll probably mod my dart fenders as well in a similar fashion.

as to caltracs, i think they'll be just fine for you. They dont do great for corner carving but seem to be very good straight line at hooking up. Also, have you decided on shocks? If you havent, I run vikings on everything now, no complaints and the dual adjusting shocks are a fair price and American made.
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  #42  
Old 07-14-2016, 06:42 PM
68Cuda 68Cuda is offline
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Wow what a difference. Nice work
Thanks - goal was to make it imperceptible. Even my 67-69 Barracuda friends don't notice unless you show them so I believe we succeeded.
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Michael
Plano, TX
1968 Barracuda Notchback

Body & Paint:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...dy-2014.10252/

Engine:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...ictures.10230/
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  #43  
Old 07-14-2016, 06:46 PM
68Cuda 68Cuda is offline
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Originally Posted by dukeboy_318 View Post
looks good, i'll probably mod my dart fenders as well in a similar fashion.

as to caltracs, i think they'll be just fine for you. They dont do great for corner carving but seem to be very good straight line at hooking up. Also, have you decided on shocks? If you havent, I run vikings on everything now, no complaints and the dual adjusting shocks are a fair price and American made.
Do the Darts have the same clearance issue? I know the opening is shaped a little different.

I was considering the Viking Berserker shocks.

Why are the Caltracs bad? How do they negatively affect handling?
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Michael
Plano, TX
1968 Barracuda Notchback

Body & Paint:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...dy-2014.10252/

Engine:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...ictures.10230/
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  #44  
Old 07-15-2016, 09:23 PM
dukeboy_318 dukeboy_318 is offline
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Originally Posted by 68Cuda View Post
Do the Darts have the same clearance issue? I know the opening is shaped a little different.

I was considering the Viking Berserker shocks.

Why are the Caltracs bad? How do they negatively affect handling?


They're just a mono leaf spring with what is essentially a ladder bar or traction bar to help them hook. And they do hook in the straight line. Having driven my buddies duster with them on, they do OK on the street, bout like stockers but go to push the envelope of a corner and they don't do so well. Kind of un predictable. Bout like stockers really. They won't hurt your handling much, but they won't help it much either. At least for corner carving. But that's just my 2 cents. I'm no suspension expert, just going on my experiences with them. I will say this, they do hook much better than stockers if you're going straight
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