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  #41  
Old 12-29-2016, 11:54 AM
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We welded up some holes in the inner fenders that would not be used.



The trunk floor had some minor corrosion, surface roughness, and pinholes from rust, but it wasn’t bad enough to warrant a complete replacement.



The fix would be to replace the center of the trunk floor with a new section from YearOne.



Adam used a cut-off wheel to cut out the section we wanted to replace. At this point, he left the trunk floor support braces in place.



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  #42  
Old 12-30-2016, 06:13 AM
gofastwclass gofastwclass is offline
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Always amazing what you find lurking beneath the paint on an otherwise nice looking car! You guys are doing a good job of making it solid again.
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  #43  
Old 12-30-2016, 08:33 PM
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Subscribed and love the 1st post telling the history of the car and I'm looking forward to watching the rest of this build.


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  #44  
Old 01-13-2017, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofastwclass View Post
Always amazing what you find lurking beneath the paint on an otherwise nice looking car! You guys are doing a good job of making it solid again.
Thank you sir!

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Originally Posted by syborg tt View Post
Subscribed and love the 1st post telling the history of the car and I'm looking forward to watching the rest of this build.


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This one has a cool history, we're glad to be a part of the next chapter! Thanks Marty!
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  #45  
Old 01-13-2017, 03:35 PM
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The old floor piece came out in one large section.





The new YearOne center trunk floor section is a very faithful reproduction on the original floor.



Adam chose to remove the trunk floor supports at this point, and transfer them to the new YearOne floor section outside the car. This would be a quicker approach than having to weld them in under the car.



Then, the new YearOne panel was trimmed to match the size of the hole left in the car.

Adam installed the long arms on the HTP spot welder, cleaned the e-coat, sprayed the bare steel with HTP Weld Through Primer, and positioned the original trunk floor supports on the new panel. Then he spot welded the panels together, leaving a factory original appearing weld process.

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  #46  
Old 01-13-2017, 03:40 PM
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The new section was then positioned in the car and held in place with some Eastwood panel clamps to keep it flush. The panel was welded in with a long series of MIG tack welds, and the welds were then ground smooth. The result is a virtually undetectable repair.







This photo is from a little later when we were prepping the bottom of the car for epoxy and coating, but you can see the bottom of the floor job clearly.

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  #47  
Old 01-15-2017, 08:41 AM
gofastwclass gofastwclass is offline
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Excellent work.
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  #48  
Old 02-01-2017, 05:12 PM
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Excellent work.
Thank you sir!
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  #49  
Old 02-01-2017, 05:16 PM
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The COMP Camaro is rolled into the paint booth where the body shell is cleaned and Axalta epoxy primer is applied over the areas of the car where new metal was installed. This will provide corrosion resistance as well as to be a strong foundation for future topcoats or body filler.







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  #50  
Old 02-01-2017, 05:17 PM
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Back in the bodyshop, the COMP Camaro’s body is ready for bodywork. After the panel gaps were set, Craig cut down the top layers of paint with the intention of not entirely stripping the car. This is done for several reasons… the existing paint was not terribly old or abused, and did not demonstrate any adhesion problems. Also, the deadline and overall project budget dictate expedience and efficiency in this area. So from this point forward, the body shell is treated like a high-quality repaint.



The substrate was sanded smooth, with dings & dents removed with hammers & dolleys, and then a skim coat of Evercoat filler was applied where needed.









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