dhutton,
Our AC recharging machine will charge without the vehicle running. Charges into the high side and the machine can build some extra pressure to get in the required amount.
Should be simple enough for most shops to drain and swap a switch quickly.
dhutton,
Our AC recharging machine will charge without the vehicle running. Charges into the high side and the machine can build some extra pressure to get in the required amount.
Should be simple enough for most shops to drain and swap a switch quickly.
Thanks. That was the part I was unsure of.
Have to wonder why the shop could not troubleshoot a disconnected connector...
Normally, if we suspect a binary switch we do like you did, jump it and if the compressor kicks on (assuming you have a charge in the system) you know it's the switch.
I don't know the shop, but it is possible they didn't want to diagnose a system someone else installed. We get similar feelings when someone brings us something they put in and want us to fix it. It's hard not knowing how something was installed, most people we deal with are trying to save a buck and we end up having to redo nearly everything.
Not saying you don't know what you are doing, just giving a shop's perspective. Sometimes it's a simple fix, like a switch, sometimes the person didn't follow instructions and you spend 3-4 hours going through everything to make sure it's correct (wired directly to battery, no scotchlocks, etc etc)
Who knows, maybe they just had time for a recharge but not for a diagnosis!
Does anyone's vintage air make a quiet ticking from the condenser inside the cab when everything is turned off? My optima yellow top seems to drain faster than I expect, so wasn't sure if this was normal.
It's possible one of the actuators is being ran, but figuring out why might be more of a task.
I'd pull the batter cable off and use a multimeter to gauge how much amperage is being lost through a draw. You can use a test light too, but it won't tell you the amount, just that there is a draw (which if you have ecm/tcm/pcm/ect there will always be). Then pull the fuses for the vintage air unit and see if the the draw goes away or becomes less. If it does, then you know its the the a/c unit. If it doesn't, you can start pulling other fuses in the car until it goes away.
However, if the test light doesn't light up or the multimeter shows no draw, you just have a battery issue.
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