1987 IROC Camaro Pro-Touring Build

[gofastwclass]

Originally Posted by Jimbo1367

LS swap would be my 1st thing to tackle.

I agree but I'm not the best for an unbiased opinion since all my vehicles use an engine from the same engine family...

However IF the current power plant is running well and meeting your needs...

[garage_engineer]

Originally Posted by gofastwclass

I agree but I'm not the best for an unbiased opinion since all my vehicles use an engine from the same engine family...

However IF the current power plant is running well and meeting your needs...

I know an LS definitetly would make a ton of sense on this car! It would be easy to do since it's already set up for fuel injection and the motor mounts, headers, etc are all readily available. I tossed the idea around for a bit but in the end I decided to stick with the ol' small block for a couple of reasons though:

1. Price - I know LS's can be had for pretty cheap but the motor I have is running well and I can save some money but sticking with it. Not saying I can't build a nice LS in the future though!

2 . Uniqueness - I wanted to stick with the small block for now to have something a little different. You don't see too many small blocks anymore, especially with the cool looking Super Ram intake! Once I get it out of the car, resealed and checked over I'm hoping she should run nice and smooth for a while.

[garage_engineer]

Continuing on with the disassembly process despite the 10deg temps here in Mass! My little garage heater is working overtime to keep my work space bearable.

I have the fuel rails and injectors off the car. I'm thinking these are Ford "blue" injectors from the 5.0L Cobra... can anyone help me to confirm that? If so, they are 24lb injectors and I think these might not be sufficient for my 350 if they are flowing correctly. I got the following from onallcylinders.com:

injector size in lbs./hr. = (Max. HP x "Brake Specific Fuel Consumption") / (number of injectors x duty cycle)
So...
Max HP = 350 (estimated)
BSFC = 0.5 (estimation for a modified, naturally aspirated engine)
# of injectors = 8
Duty Cycle = 0.80 (the amount of time injector is open versus the total time between firing events; .80 is safe for an OE injector)

(350 x 0.5) / (8 x 0.8) = 27.34 lbs./hr<-- Looks like I need bigger injectors... any thoughts?

I'd like to send them out to get rebuilt and flow tested as well... any suggestions on who could do this?





I also managed to remove the transmission crossmember and started working on getting the transmission out from under the car. I tried supporting it with my floor jack and a piece of wood, but definitely did not feel comfortable doing it that way. That T56 is heavy! I ended up heading over to Harbor Freight and grabbing a small scissor lift to use. I don't mind buying tools like this if it makes my life easier and I'm going to use it again in the future.

[DBasher]

Navigator injectors are blue, Cobra are black...must be some kind of hybrid ��

[WSSix]

Your math is correct. They most likely were pushing the injectors harder, meaning a higher duty cycle. Assuming your injectors are 24lb injectors. YOu can safely push injectors to 85 and 90% if necessary. Just depends on what you need, what's available, and what your fuel pressure is.

According to this link https://www.injectorrx.com/bosch-fuel-injectors/ They are 25lb/hr injectors.

They'll work just fine for you. You can always increase the fuel pressure, too. I recommend a dyno tune or at least a dyno session with O2 reading once you get the car together. You may find power but you'll determine if the engine is safe more importantly

[garage_engineer]

Originally Posted by WSSix

Your math is correct. They most likely were pushing the injectors harder, meaning a higher duty cycle. Assuming your injectors are 24lb injectors. YOu can safely push injectors to 85 and 90% if necessary. Just depends on what you need, what's available, and what your fuel pressure is.

According to this link https://www.injectorrx.com/bosch-fuel-injectors/ They are 25lb/hr injectors.

They'll work just fine for you. You can always increase the fuel pressure, too. I recommend a dyno tune or at least a dyno session with O2 reading once you get the car together. You may find power but you'll determine if the engine is safe more importantly

Thanks for the tips Trey. I am sending the injectors out to get flow tested before they are rebuilt to make sure they are actually 24lb/hr. If they aren't I'll be on the lookout for a new set. Dyno tune is also definitely in order. Might be tough finding someone around here who can do it though... most shops are LS based and I don't know if anyone has the ability to burn me a custom chip. I'll need to research that for sure.

Originally Posted by grendel

In for the build.

Nice to see a Masshole doing something

Just doing my part... hopefully you are keeping warm up there in NH!

[garage_engineer]

Slow progress in the garage due to the cold weather and a big snow storm last week, but some progress is better than none!

I got my fuel injectors disconnected from the fuel rail and will be sending them out this week. Some of them look pretty nasty so I'll see what the fuel injector shop says on whether it's worth restoring them or just getting new ones:


I took my shifter out of the car and cleaned it and tagged the bolts before putting it on the storage shelf. Looks like a Pro 5.0 (at least the shifter handle is) and I think I may change it out for something with a stiffer feel. I had an MGW in my Corvette and loved the super short, stiff shifts so I may look into one of those for this car.


I also assembled my engine hoist I got from Harbor Freight. It comes in 2 boxes and initially one of the boxes was wrong, but they swapped it out without a fuss and now she's ready for action


I need some help on something here... my car has trouble starting when it sits for a day or 2. It cranks over fine, but takes quite a while to catch. Once it starts it runs fine, and it'll start right up if I ask it to again on that same day. I think what may be happening is my fuel pressure regulator is slowly bleeding off fuel pressure when the car is off... so when I hit the key the next day, it needs to build up that pressure again before it starts. Does this sounds correct? If so, is there a way I can test my fuel pressure regulator?


Looking like some warmer weather coming this week (we might get above freezing!) so hopefully I'll be able to make some good progress!

[grendel]

In for the build.

Nice to see a Masshole doing something