WELD/SUTTON DIRT MISSILE build

[DBasher]

Hells Yes!

[Ron Sutton]

This scale numbers are complete with driver weight, fuel, etc. But once the car gets wrapped, interior sealed, exhaust coated & chassis & sheet metal power coated, the total weight will be around 2840+/-

[214Chevy]

Car looks great Greg and Ron. What wheels are you running?

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by 214Chevelle

Car looks great Greg and Ron. What wheels are you running?

On car builds like these, I only trust Forgeline. They are the strongest light wheel, or the lightest strong wheel, depending on your point of view. These wheels are 18"x 13" & only weigh 18#. But the key is these wheels keep their shape correctly under high G loads which is critical to the tire keeping its shape & optimum contact patch.

This particular wheel is GZ3R. There are 4 models I like & recommend for the best balance of strength & weight:
GA3/GA3R
GW3/GW3R
GX3
GZ3/GZ3R
* In this 18x13 size these wheels cost under $5k.

The basic difference with R model wheels is the cap. Non R wheels come with a regular Forgeline center cap. This works well for all common street hubs & spindles (which are typically 2.78" & smaller). The "R" wheels do not come with caps, typically because the Heavy Duty spindles & hubs they fit over ... Like our Track-Star Spindles/Hubs & Speedway Grand National Floater Hubs which are all 3.06" ... have their own caps that stick through the wheel, as you can see in this photo here.



A lot of people think this is an unlimited budget build. But that's not the case at all. If it were an unlimited budget Build, we'd be running carbon fiber Forgeline wheels, as well as titanium & carbon fiber components throughout the car. Plus we'd have more power than our "base" 700HP LS7. Like 850-900HP. But an all out car would be $600-$700k. This is a $195K car with the sequential shift & big Aero options added, before we add in the second set of wheels. That will include the final wrap.

[GregWeld]

AND IT'S BAD ASS !!! And and a "missile"......


And you "Corvette racers"...... well yeah -- about that..... LOL


I'll take a real race car with race tires - and all the safety - and all the coolness that goes with all that. Not baggin' on Pro showing -- but some guys have moved beyond that.

GONE RACIN'

[Build-It-Break-it]

What material for your driveline are you guys running? What type of U joint? I've seen the solid non greaseable 1350 joint but was curious of it's reliability for a duel purpose car.

You just can't beat the value of what you get for what you paid for this car. The time it took from start to finish is just amazing. If I could afford to do my car again I'd be money ahead to just buy a rolling chassis all set up from Ron and throw my steel body on it and enjoy. I'd still want license plates tho so I could drive it on the street when I know I shouldn't.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-it

That material for your driveline are you guys running? What type of U joint? I've seen the solid non greaseable 1350 joint but was curious of it's reliability for a duel purpose car.

You just can't beat the value of what you get forwhat you paid for this car. The time it took from start to finish is just amazing. If I could afford to do my car again I'd be money ahead to just buy a rolling chassis all set up from Ron and throw my steel body on it and enjoy. I'd still want license plates tho so I could drive it on the street when I know I shouldn't.

FACT.......


Or you can just buy all the pieces as you can afford them (no different than any other build) but you'll end up with something that works and is superior in so many ways.

For me --- the speeds these guys are running in their "street cars"..... yeah -- they're insane. Only time before that doesn't work out so well.

I have street cars -- I have a Porsche Turbo S - I've driven lots of "fast" cars.... to me - they're so boring..... compared to when something like this is born and you crawl behind the wheel. For me personally -- it's just a natural progression.

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-it

What material for your driveline are you guys running? What type of U joint? I've seen the solid non greaseable 1350 joint but was curious of it's reliability for a duel purpose car.

You just can't beat the value of what you get for what you paid for this car. The time it took from start to finish is just amazing. If I could afford to do my car again I'd be money ahead to just buy a rolling chassis all set up from Ron and throw my steel body on it and enjoy. I'd still want license plates tho so I could drive it on the street when I know I shouldn't.

Good question!

We run both 1026 DOM & 4130 Chromoly driveshafts. With the sequential "no-lift" shift transmission the DOM absorbs the shock better. We run special Dana Spicer 1350 chromoly U-joints. No zerk to grease, so no weak spots.

We have a LOT of clients building Track-Warriors for street & track. The way most clients do it is buy the "Build-Your-Own" kits that start at $12,899 HERE.

[Ron Sutton]

Some of you may not have realized on our shake down day the car wasn't ready to race or run many laps because the interior tin wasn't sealed & the exhaust wasn't thermal barrier coated.

The cockpit needs to be fully sealed from the engine bay & fuel cell area. We use a 3M Fire Retardant Sealer good up to 2000°. The exhaust runs so close to the transmission, the gear oil would overheat in it if the exhaust was uncoated. So we Jet-Hot coat the inside & outside of the header tubes & exhaust. (Mufflers only on the outside) This knocks down the radiant heat around the transmission & driver by 40-45°.

The Mustang comes apart late this week to go to powder coat. In our Track-Warrior cars like Greg's ... the steel floor, firewall & bulkhead/rear deck sheet metal are welded to the chassis ... and get powder coated along with the chassis & cage assembly. When it goes back together for final assembly, Randy Chastain will utilize the 3M Fire Retardant Sealer on every seam under the car, at the firewall & at the rear bulkhead & decklid sheet metal. This prevents C0², smoke, oil, fire, etc from entering into the cockpit.

I'm outlining this important step, because many of you already have, or will, modify the sheet metal in your builds & NEED TO KNOW it's critical to seal it & what to use. It's NOT OK to leave any seam unsealed. It's unsafe.

The car will go back together later this month & get ready to go run the NASA event at Thunderhill Raceway in Willows California on Aug 4-5. Since the car wasn't built to fit a class, we will run it in the "Unlimited" class of NASA's Time Attack, known as TTU. Since it is an unlimited class, often there are Prototype race cars that run in TTU.



We won't stand a chance against any Prototype race cars, with our Trans Am style 70 Mustang. But if there are no Prototype race cars, we'll have a good shot at running up front. Our driver Benny Moon is super talented, but hasn't been in a real race car is many years, so he'll need to shake off the rust as we work up to speed.

I don't know how fast we'll get this first weekend. I plan to do only basic tuning for balance. But it would be fun to have a pool of folks betting on Benny's best lap of the weekend.

We have a betting pool ... similar to a football pool.
* 100 times between 1:50.0 & 1:59.9 lap time, a tenth of a second apart
* Pick one time or as many as your wallet can handle
* Closest time wins all the pool money & bragging rights
* Only 1 time, Best time of the weekend, counts

Pick your time(s) HERE.

[Build-It-Break-it]

Ron do you carry and sell the 3m 2000* seam sealer? How's many tubes would typically be needed to seal a car (approximately)?

Will you do a video on this car on your YouTube channel?

Just bought 2 time slots! Exciting

Once the time slot is purchased is it taken off to prevent someone else from buying the same time slot?