My thinking: There really isn't a good/solid/safe place to put jack stands on the narrowed rear rail (after install of DSE 4link) because the lower link bar is below the frame rail, it’s just tight and cumbersome. Also, given that the front subframe is wider than most jack stand posts making it a little unstable/insecure....and that both of these locations are not ideal for the lift pads such that there is low risk of the car shifting/sliding in the front and the same clearance issues exist in the rear....and that you really need to raise the car first, before being able to put it on the lift, I built these points to solve the above.
In the rear, this point is affixed to the lower 4 link mount that I made. This whole area is tied to the rear frame rail which is/will be basically attached to the rear roll bar down tube.
In the front this lifting point is placed on top of 1/8” thick pad that will be connected to the front down tube of the roll bar.
I will add a lifting point for the floor jack which will lift from the new trans x-member which is connected to the roll cage.
Built them this way so there was effectively a couple of “feet” that will dig into the lift pads to further anchor the car in place. Also, these little feet serve to help keep the car from slipping on the jack stands. Also, these front and rear points will provide for the car to be perfectly level on lift.
Agreed, all of this is a bit of overkill but it only added about 7lbs and I think it will make life easier overall.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
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