Hackster's Need for Swede 😁

[Ketzer]

Did those exhaust hangers come from Vibrant also?


Jeff-

[hackster]

Originally Posted by Ketzer

Did those exhaust hangers come from Vibrant also?


Jeff-

Hangers are Stainless Works ordered from Summit

Been messing with some tubing and struggling with what to do. Halfway tempted to just bag on this idea after getting 742 different opinions on the roll bar/roll cage/street car/harnesses/track car debate. All good info, just getting analysis paralysis.

Main hoop is done for the most part. Just tacked in place for now but it came together pretty nicely.



Floor plate and rear fender well plates are built and ready to go in for the drivers side.





Going to keep trucking on this over the weekend and see what I can come up with.

Its a street car that will do some track days.

Might even be able to work on the exhaust this weekend if I get my **** together.

Sean

[DBasher]

Sorry about the “help” but you did ask, lol.

Just stick to the plan of a point to tie your harnesesses to and move on. If and when you decide to build a track specific car you can bust out the bender again and go full retard.

[SSLance]

I'm happy with my very well built 4 point bar in my street car. The four attachment points are directly above body the frame mounts and have significant plates between tubes and floor. The down bars have no bends in them.

Anything more than that is overkill and even detrimental for most street cars.

[hackster]

Originally Posted by DBasher

Sorry about the “help” but you did ask, lol.

Just stick to the plan of a point to tie your harnesesses to and move on. If and when you decide to build a track specific car you can bust out the bender again and go full retard.

All good my friend, I always appreciate the help and ideas.

Originally Posted by SSLance

I'm happy with my very well built 4 point bar in my street car. The four attachment points are directly above body the frame mounts and have significant plates between tubes and floor. The down bars have no bends in them.

Anything more than that is overkill and even detrimental for most street cars.

I read through your entire build thread after you posted this and its the one thing that sold me on redoing my rear design to above the rear suspension instead of on top of the wheel wells.

Thanks for taking the time to read my post and provide some great advice!!!

In the end, stiffness and function won out over form and fitment of the rear seats.

I can tell you that this was a **** ton of work.

It went in and out of the car too many times to count 90 % of them by myself. I had a hand today thank god.

checking the main hoop for fitment against the seats





Mock up of the rear plates and down tubes.



Main structure tacked together and mocked up the down bars, ready to pull it all out and start welding






Commencing final welding. Was not quite sure how the 1/8" plate would weld to the factory sheetmetal but once I had the welder dialed in it was good to go.

Pretty happy with the way these laid out, directly over the rear crossmember and shock mount should stiffen up the back of the car a lot.





The way I built it I was able to slide the final welded main hoop with the down bars tacked on forward so I was able to final weld up the top of the down bars nicely and 100%.



Worked like a charm

I had a slight kick angle on one of the legs and it needed to get pushed back a hair so a little push with the porta power and it was all good!!



Welded out



The **** show of fire paper and all kinds of crap.



Hope to be able to get it scuffed, primed and painted tomorrow, maybe start on the exhaust next weekend.

Thanks for the pointers all.

[Flash68]

I like your decision. You are someone who enjoys the big track - vs big parking lots - so the more bars the better IMO.

[SSLance]

I like it! That is going to work out very nicely for your needs. Nice execution...

What size tube is that, it looks big? I believe Charley used 1.75" 0.120 wall on mine but can't remember for sure. He said it was good for any sanctions up to actual wheel to wheel racing (no door bars). He was able to tilt mine forward to completely weld on top of the bars then tilt it back into place. Looks like you had to scoot forward instead because of the sheet metal the rear down bars go thru.