Hackster's Need for Swede 😁

[DWC]

The welds look great. Kudos on tackling it yourself. I often stress out about a job I've not done before, then look back after it's done and realize it wasn't a big deal after all.

Daniel

[SSLance]

Looks great! Nice work. Did you fill with water and test for leaks before final install?

[payne]

I love the build. Really impressive! Are you running E85? Meth? Stock LSA heads? What's your peak boost?

I daily drive a 3-pedal CTS-V with a stock longbock LSA @ 702rwhp, and I might encourage you to consider a larger pulley than the 2.45"

The 2.45" will work great on the street, autoX, and speed stops, but you're gonna be fighting IAT2s all day long spinning the blower that fast on the track.

You're correct that an ice tank will not help on the track either, other than the first 2-3 laps. The reality is that the brick in the lid just doesn't have the ability to shed as much heat as the blower generates with that small of a pulley for the typical road course WOT profile.

Is your pulley interchangeable? IE could you run a 2.45 for most events, then swap the pulley and tune for road course events? If that's legal, that might be the hot ticket.

[hackster]

Originally Posted by SSLance

Looks great! Nice work. Did you fill with water and test for leaks before final install?

I didnt until you said to.....I built an elaborate setup so that I could pressure test with air and check for bubbles. My entire career has been in HVAC Service and that is how we test for leaks so I am comfortable with it and can 100% pinpoint them. I managed to find 2 pinhole leaks, got those ironed out and installed for good. Thanks for the tip Lance. I would not have checked and would have been pissed at myself.

Originally Posted by payne

I love the build. Really impressive! Are you running E85? Meth? Stock LSA heads? What's your peak boost?

I daily drive a 3-pedal CTS-V with a stock longbock LSA @ 702rwhp, and I might encourage you to consider a larger pulley than the 2.45"

The 2.45" will work great on the street, autoX, and speed stops, but you're gonna be fighting IAT2s all day long spinning the blower that fast on the track.

You're correct that an ice tank will not help on the track either, other than the first 2-3 laps. The reality is that the brick in the lid just doesn't have the ability to shed as much heat as the blower generates with that small of a pulley for the typical road course WOT profile.

Is your pulley interchangeable? IE could you run a 2.45 for most events, then swap the pulley and tune for road course events? If that's legal, that might be the hot ticket.

Was at 8lbs on stock setup, pump gas, no meth, just normal boosted pump gas engine. Tune is very conservative. Keep in mind that this is a 6.0 Gen IV truck motor, its not an LSA block, heads or accessory drive. I wish =)

From what I have read and researched....

The LSA crank pulley is 7.8" and the stock truck crank pulley I am running is a 7.5" so that means I have an underdriven crank pulley. I should be overdriving the blower by approx 20% with a max speed of under 20,000 rpm with the 7.5" crank and 2.45" upper. I also cannot fit a larger pulley in there with the Nick Williams Throttle body.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/PRI2014...heet%201.1.pdf

The other thing to note, I dont spin this thing to the moon. I have my rev limiter set to 6200 currently and usually shifted about 5600 to 6000.

I am going for smooth, reliable horsepower on this setup so the tune will take that into account.

The one thing I am worried about is the brick and wonder if I should install a reinforced one while I have everything apart.

Appreciate all of the pointers though, sure helps having others keep an eye on it. I also don't think Ill be anywhere near your 702 wheel hp.

Sean

[rustomatic]

Love all the easy bolt-on upgrades, Sean . . .

Question: Are you using TIG or a spool gun for the AL welds? I have a never-used spool gun I got with my Miller welder several years ago . . .

It would be interesting to see what a few more RPMs would get you, given the linear power-generating characteristics blowers are supposed to have. Your springs are surely good to 6800, along with your cam.

Happy holidays, dude!

[payne]

Originally Posted by hackster

Was at 8lbs on stock setup, pump gas, no meth, just normal boosted pump gas engine. Tune is very conservative. Keep in mind that this is a 6.0 Gen IV truck motor, its not an LSA block, heads or accessory drive. I wish =)

From what I have read and researched....

The LSA crank pulley is 7.8" and the stock truck crank pulley I am running is a 7.5" so that means I have an underdriven crank pulley. I should be overdriving the blower by approx 20% with a max speed of under 20,000 rpm with the 7.5" crank and 2.45" upper. I also cannot fit a larger pulley in there with the Nick Williams Throttle body.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/PRI2014...heet%201.1.pdf

The other thing to note, I dont spin this thing to the moon. I have my rev limiter set to 6200 currently and usually shifted about 5600 to 6000.

I am going for smooth, reliable horsepower on this setup so the tune will take that into account.

The one thing I am worried about is the brick and wonder if I should install a reinforced one while I have everything apart.

Appreciate all of the pointers though, sure helps having others keep an eye on it. I also don't think Ill be anywhere near your 702 wheel hp.

Sean

Ah, that smaller lower pulley makes a big difference in total blower speed!

The reinforced brick is cheap to outsource (~$100), and even cheaper to do yourself (~$30 for a kit). That being said, it's boost that kills the brick and 8-10lbs should be okay. If it does deform, it typically just dents inward without leaking, and hampers cooling. IE your IAT2s will creep up as the coolant flow is impacted, but there aren't a lot of reports of catastrophic brick failures AFAIK.

I'm running 16lbs of boost with a stock LSA longblock and a 2.4" upper, and my brick is still fine. That being said, I only street drive the car and never see 4th and 5th gear pulls that you'll see on a road course.

Have you looked at flex fuel? I pick up ~100rwhp at ~E50 over 91 octane.

In fact, you could potentially run 91/93 octane for autoX and speed stop, then ethanol for road course and probably be faster at both events based on fuel alone.

Also, do you have AC installed on the car? If so, using an interchiller to cool your blower coolant in the staging lanes will give you a lot more predictable power versus a heatsoaked blower by the time you get to the starting line, and unknown timing pulled during the run as your IAT2s creep up.

[SSLance]

Originally Posted by hackster

I didnt until you said to.....I built an elaborate setup so that I could pressure test with air and check for bubbles. My entire career has been in HVAC Service and that is how we test for leaks so I am comfortable with it and can 100% pinpoint them. I managed to find 2 pinhole leaks, got those ironed out and installed for good. Thanks for the tip Lance. I would not have checked and would have been pissed at myself.


Sean

**whew** Happy to help out.

[hackster]

Havent touched the car in almost a month and its been a nice break. When I was down at OPTIMA Invitational LSX Magazine contacted me about shooting some photos of the car for a write up.

I had no idea that it was going to be some of the best photos I have ever seen of the car.

Check it out if you get a chance

https://www.lsxmag.com/features/car-...983-volvo-240/

Here are a few of the photos that Nicole shot of the car.
















I honestly never thought this thing would get this kind of love from people but its pretty awesome.

Last summer was simply outstanding for how many events we went to and all the amazing people we met.

Looking forward to the new setup being even better this year.

Sean

[jarhead]

Congratulations Sean!