Paint/Finish Question

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by LS1 TJ

Maybe one of the body shops techs would moon light a bit and help you color sand and buff?

that's what I was thinking!

[JD67SS]

It’s really not that hard, it just takes a looooooong time.
If you’re really serious about doing this, I’ll give you good advice.

I would think that the shop owner would let you talk to the painter, ask how many coats and how much clear (should be about a gallon).

Post back and we’ll continue this.

JD

[Tony V]

Okay here's what i'm thinking....i'm bringing it home and I'm taking the clear down to the paint. The shop i'm yanking it from has a new painter and he's been watching the sh** show for some time so out of the blue I asked him for some advice. He doesn't know how much clear is on there but he's been asked to touch up and add more clear as they've been trying to fix the issues. He told me i should just stop the madness and get it out. He actually offered to come over to my garage and lend a hand. I'll post some pics of where we're currently at. shortly. oh they also miss drilled where my emblems where supposed to be mounted so i need to consider welding the holes up and starting over but that creates another huge mess.

[Tony V]

Hard to see issues with these pics....i need to load more. but the door to fender gaps are bad...too tight on the bottom and >1/2" on top. and the clear wasn't nearly sanded well enough....it seems the finish has "ripples" in it.

[dhutton]

If the door gaps to the rocker and quarter are good then the fender gaps are due to the subframe and/or core support bushings imho. Shimming will likely be needed.

Urethane wave needs to be blocked out with long stiff blocks and will remove a lot of clear. If you hit the base it’s game over and the panel needs to be repainted imho...

If you are also welding up emblem holes you are most likely looking at a complete do over imho...

Don

[syborg tt]

Originally Posted by Tony V

Hard to see issues with these pics....i need to load more. but the door to fender gaps are bad...too tight on the bottom and >1/2" on top. ]

Are you running subframe connectors that are bolted or welded it in ?

If they are welded in them it’s possible your core support needs shims.

You need to look at the six mounting points and see if they shimmed anything and do you remember if there where any shims before the car was disassembled before paint ?

I would work on all panel fitting before you do any paint correction.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LS1 TJ]

Bummer about your project. But as said above attack it slowly but by shimming and aligning the front sub frame you may be OK.. It may come out well. Keep in mind that if unless the body shop welded and ground the fender/door gaps they won't be any better than 1969 gaps which weren't good.
What won't be good is if you try to straighten waves by sanding the clear. That has to done with the under laying body work.
I not a body guy but my best car buddy is and I show him these threads and ask for his advice.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by LS1 TJ

What won't be good is if you try to straighten waves by sanding the clear. That has to done with the under laying body work.
I not a body guy but my best car buddy is and I show him these threads and ask for his advice.

The wave is in the clear. Urethane wave. Generally caused by hammering on the clear. Google it....

Don