PWM cooling fan(s) control using ECM

[andrewb70]

I accidentally hooked up the power side to the controller backwards. The fan would run all the time...and then it eventually smoked the controller. Might want to double-check that. If you smoked the controller, time to get the Volt fans.

[cpd004]

Originally Posted by andrewb70

I accidentally hooked up the power side to the controller backwards. The fan would run all the time...and then it eventually smoked the controller. Might want to double-check that. If you smoked the controller, time to get the Volt fans.

I just double checked everything and realized a stupid mistake on my part-I think. The PWM signal is likely ground in a wave. I grounded all the grounds together to the body. In other words, I took both black wires from the module and both of my fan grounds all to the same point on the body. I undid the grounds and the fans no longer come on immediately, but no fans despite the command in the tune at ECT. I do believe the module is fried and the leak is getting worse.


I plugged the SS fan in to the round Yazaki connector and it came on immediately with the car off as a pusher. So the input for that module is reverse of what the C6 controller is.

[cpd004]

I hooked up the SS fan with the correct (reversed from C6 module) input, fired up the car and the fans came on slowly at around 198 or so. They got slightly quicker as it got to 209 but I didn't go any further because of the leak and the fact that fan assembly was just leaning against the car. You couldn't hear them but the airflow at that low speed was nice.

My C6 module has to be fried. The SS one would take some work to put in it's place. It has Yazaki connectors on all three sides. One in and one for each fan.

Either way I need to make a decision on the radiator.

So frustrating!

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by cpd004

I hooked up the SS fan with the correct (reversed from C6 module) input, fired up the car and the fans came on slowly at around 198 or so. They got slightly quicker as it got to 209 but I didn't go any further because of the leak and the fact that fan assembly was just leaning against the car. You couldn't hear them but the airflow at that low speed was nice.

My C6 module has to be fried. The SS one would take some work to put in it's place. It has Yazaki connectors on all three sides. One in and one for each fan.

Either way I need to make a decision on the radiator.

So frustrating!

Go junk yard hunting for a Ford Fusion at the local junk yard and score yourself a C6 fan controller. Should be about $30.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

I thought some of you might like seeing PWM fan control in action.



Andrew

[camcojb]

So I have the Holley Dominator EFI and a Ron Davis radiator with dual Spal brushed fans. What else would be needed to make this work?

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by camcojb

So I have the Holley Dominator EFI and a Ron Davis radiator with dual Spal brushed fans. What else would be needed to make this work?

Depending on which Spal fans you have you, you might be able to use one C6 fan controller for both. If the combined amp draw of both fans exceeds 32 amps, you will need two C6 fan controllers.

By the time you get two controllers (unless you want to go junk car hunting...the Ford Fusion used the same controller) you might be better off selling the fans you have and going with the new brushless fans.

The C7 fan should fit a Chevelle radiator size well or perhaps the Chevrolet Volt dual 12" setup. The new fans have the controllers built in. I have several customers using the C7 fan and Holley EFI. The C7 fan is 600 watts and the Volt fans are 300 watts each.

I plan on updating the GTO this spring and will likely use the Volt fans.

Andrew