Collateral Damage- My 70 Chevelle site build

[ScotI]

Originally Posted by dhutton

Since we are critiquing your build do you have any concerns about exhaust heat cooking your fan motors? It looks close in the pics. I know you can wrap the pipe but the insulation is not perfect. That being said I don’t know chit about building a turbo engine

Don

I've had similar thoughts as well. Lots of these turbo set-ups on the NET & it's always had me wondering about exhaust heat related impact on items not normally subjected to the issue.

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by dhutton

Since we are critiquing your build do you have any concerns about exhaust heat cooking your fan motors? It looks close in the pics. I know you can wrap the pipe but the insulation is not perfect. That being said I don’t know chit about building a turbo engine

Don

Originally Posted by ScotI

I've had similar thoughts as well. Lots of these turbo set-ups on the NET & it's always had me wondering about exhaust heat related impact on items not normally subjected to the issue.

I don't. For one, I just moved the engine back 2"... Plus I'm going to use Zycoat on the pipe; they claim it reduces radiant heat by 90%. Reviews look very good. If I'm not happy I'll also wrap it. On Malitude the pipes I wrapped with Thermotec wrap could be touched after driving without burning.

[camcojb]

Changed my mind and decided to remake the upper hose tubing, to get both bends in stainless 1.5" tubing. Moving the engine back gave me the additional room, before it was too close to get the 90 degree bend into the radiator in solid tubing, the molded hose could do a tighter bend.

[dhutton]

Hi Jody. What are you using to put the bead in the tube?

Thanks,
Don

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by dhutton

Hi Jody. What are you using to put the bead in the tube?

Thanks,
Don

Don,

I've had the Bead Form bead roller for many years, works fantastic. At the time there weren't many others, but now there's several similar units.

[Blown353]

I can confirm that Jody's Beadform works great, even on 0.065" stainless, as I was in possession of Jody's for the last who knows how many years while trying to get my car finished and only recently returned it to him... (thanks again, by the way.)

A lot of the cheaper bead rollers won't handle stainless tubing. Aluminum and mild steel are OK, but they'll tweak or flat out break if doing stainless.

I have a tubing beadroller die set for my Mittler Brothers panel bead roller that also works, but I don't care for how far back it puts the bead from the end of the tube... in some tight radius / tight clearance situations it locates the bead too far back. It also can't do any smaller than 1.25" tubing and is only rated up to .059" mild steel or 0.043" stainless. No such diameter or thickness problems on the Beadform that Jody posted, it locates the bead very close to the end of the tubing and will handle up to 0.065" wall stainless.

I recently bought the K2 bead roller from Furick. It also locates the bead close to the end of the tube like the Beadform, and it's a really stout piece. It lacks some of the "nice to have" things of the Beadforms like the roller handle and large T handle on the tension knob, but it's $200 cheaper and has the strength where it counts in the frame, shafts, bushings, and gearing. The latest Beadform 3 HD is probably the best unit out there though-- but it's also $200 more expensive. If I was using it every day on stainless I would have bought the Beadform 3 HD along with the motor kit, but I only need to roll beads on tubing a couple of times a year when doing radiator, intake, or intercooler piping.

https://furickcup.com/product/k2-bead-roller/

[camcojb]

Fitted the firewall smoothing plate from ABC Performance, fit great. Mounted up the Restomod Air a/c unit inside the car, and the bulkhead on the firewall. Special thanks to Rick at Vintage Air for building me a custom compressor line manifold to clear the turbo and wastegate.

My Inland Empire driveshaft showed up, and I was able to find an SS dash through National Parts Depot that actually uses chrome around the bezels and lettering instead of silver paint. Looks a lot better than other reproduction dashes. Started fitting the Dakota Digital gauges to the new dash.