TO bearing issue

[DRJDVM's '69]

TO bearing was checked by Bowler and nothing obvious on the seal. Rebuilt it anyway since I'm 99% sure the fluid puked from there

McLeod looked at clutch and the disks were fried, and mid plate warped. I have a feeling that happened after the TO died on me and the disk wasn't fully releasing when the clutch was depressed, so it was slipping like crazy and torched the disk. The clutch is rebuilt and on the way back to me

Its got to be the throw on the pedal.....

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by DRJDVM's '69

Its got to be the throw on the pedal.....

Good thought.

[DRJDVM's '69]

Sent the TO to Bowler- nothing obvious but rebuilt it anyway...

Clutch to McLeod..... disks were torched and the mid plate was heated and warped. They rebuilt it..... and all under warranty, despite this likely being something on my end... shout to McLeod for great customer support

Got it all back together... spending a ton of time of getting the TO air gap right at .125 per Tilton.

So it all back together.... bled the hell out of the whole system, both power bleeder and the old fashion way. And I still cant get the clutch to release trying to set the stop.

Plugged the feed line off the slave and the pedal is like a rock....so I don't think its the slave.

The pedal feels pretty decent and I can see it move the TO bearing forward. I just don't think its generating enough pressure to push the clutch finger in

All I can think of is the pedal throw. Its got an adjustable link, so I can thread it farther/less onto the slave rod and then adjust the how far the link its into the center piece to start, then tweak the pedal height.

Trying wrap my head around the physics to maximize the throw. The slave rod is essentially static, while I can make the heim joint that attaches to the pedal be in/or more on the center piece to start. Once its together I can rotate the center section to fine tune the pedal height.

If its not the pedal travel, I'm stumped on what else to troubleshoot at this stage

[dontlifttoshift]

What is the total travel on the throw out bearing?

With everything installed, what is the distance from the clutch fingers to fully compressed on the throw out bearing. In other words, where in the total travel does the bearing sit at idle?

How much bearing travel does it take to fully release the clutch?

What master cylinder are you using and how is it mounted? What is the bore size?

[dontlifttoshift]

...double post

[DRJDVM's '69]

Its a Tilton 6000 series hydraulic TO bearing

Per the Tilton instructions I set the air gap at 0.125.... I can see in the bell the TO is slightly pushed out from fully compressed... I can reach in and full push it back in. When I depress the clutch you can see the TO extend out

T75-750U 3/4 bore compact master cylinder, per my purchase invoice...

RST twin disk clutch

Based on the Tilton sheet, with lever style clutch and a 3/4 bore slave, the master cylinder stroke is supposed to be 1.4 inches.... with a diagram type clutch its 1.1 inches

All the stuff worked before I had the blow out. The only thing that may be different is the clutch rod length. The upper heim didn't have a jam nut and it didnt fee like it had much thread engage so it had a bit of wobble to it, so I pulled it all out, and screwed the heim in father then reattached everything and then adjust the pedal height. But all that should do is move the center adjustment piece up and down on the threads... it shouldn't effect the throw on the slave, unless I'm not thinking about this right

It all worked before.... so something is different now...

[DRJDVM's '69]

Well no matter what I did it wouldn't build enough pressure to release the clutch.

With it in gear up on jack stands it had some intermittent knocking in the bellhousing too. I did not have the flywheel balanced to the new clutch, but did to the old one.... not sure if that's the noise, it would come and go a bit. I had a post awhile back about it sounding "off" with some rattling before but everyone said it was typical for the T56 gears to make some noise.

So all apart... AGAIN..... get it apart and there's some fluid on underside of the TO and the bellhousing has fluid in it..... so it looks like the rebuilt TO bearing is still leaking. Bowler did not find a leak before... rebuilt it anyway and checked again with no leaks. No clue how much pressure they put to it, but its for sure leaking and wont build pressure to release the clutch....

Not happy...... doing this on my back in 90+ degree heat is so much fun.

On the upside.... it wasn't something I jacked up... NOT MY FAULT!!!

Going to get the flywheel and clutch balanced together.... with the transmission out yet again I'm tempted to have it upgraded....maybe Bowler Stage II upgrade....

So much for GoodGuys in 2 weeks