Measuring exposed threads can be an indicator that something is way off but past that it is a meaningless measurement.
Centering the wheel to the box, or in this case, the rack and pinion:
First, make sure that the turn signal canceling cam is in the proper location in relation to the hub with the wheel steering wheel straight. Correct that first.
With the tie rods disconnected or the pitman arm removed count the total number of turns in the steering box or rack. We disconnect those parts to ensure that we are not hitting something external like a steering stop or frame rail with the tire. Remember, we are centering the wheel to the box.
Divide total number of turns in half. If you are 2.5 turns lock to lock, then you 1.25 turns each way off of center. The actual number is less important than having the same amount of steering wheel travel in both directions. This is non negotiable, spend the time to get it right.
If you are off there are several ways to adjust. If the you have stock column you really can't make the adjustment at the wheel so you have to do it at the box or rack. If you have an IDIDIT column you can easily reclock the hub and canceling cam by just turning it. GM columns are 26 spline at the wheel, most racks are 36 spline so the rack will give you a finer adjustment. Some columns are also splined and that gives you another shot at getting it perfect. I have adjusted all three before to get where I wanted to be.
Get a real alignment. It is pretty hard to measure toe on a 29" tire to .060" with a pair of tape measures.
To expand on musclerodz point. Any bind in the system, from a U joint to a hub rubbing on the column will make a difference in feel. Some cars, if you tighten all the linkage with the car hanging from a two post lift, the linkage will be bound up on the ground.
Mission accomplished. Had the truck wheels straight ahead. Popped the tie rods then centered the rack. Then adjusted the tie rods to fit the steering arms, without moving the tires. Exposed threads at the tie rods went from 1/8" difference when I started to 1/4" once the rack was centered. Not sure it means anything? I have a alignment scheduled. Picture shows under the rack boot. The piece with the set screw, could it be a factory adjustable limiter?
Nope, that is the rack extension. I am guessing your track width is wider than the stock Mustang II 56.5" so they use those extensions to widen the rack by moving the inner tie rod further out.
Remember that if you decide to change the rack to something else. You will have to swap those pieces over to your new rack along with the longer boots.
Factory steering stops are the inner tie rod end bottoming out in the rack. You can adjust those with plastic clip on bushings to get less rack travel. They are a factory piece and still available from most of the mustang suppliers and were OE on the 93 Cobras
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Nope, that is the rack extension. I am guessing your track width is wider than the stock Mustang II 56.5" so they use those extensions to widen the rack by moving the inner tie rod further out.
Remember that if you decide to change the rack to something else. You will have to swap those pieces over to your new rack along with the longer boots.
Factory steering stops are the inner tie rod end bottoming out in the rack. You can adjust those with plastic clip on bushings to get less rack travel. They are a factory piece and still available from most of the mustang suppliers and were OE on the 93 Cobras
Good to know. Thank you. My track width is around 62". I am useing the clips, but in my case they are up against the rack extensions.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
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