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  #1  
Old 02-08-2024, 05:54 PM
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Very nice hardline work.
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 02-08-2024, 08:44 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
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Mark, how do you normally run the brake hoses and wheel speed sensor wires to the rear axle for the ABS? Do you drop them all near the center section and run them along the axle like GM routed the brake lines on these cars originally, or you you drop each side down independently near the hubs like many late model cars with IRS do?

Just asking because I'm adding ABS to my car, and trying to decide how best to run things to the rear hubs and calipers. I'm leaning towards dropping both brake hoses and the speed sensor wires above the center section and then running them down the axle tubes to the rear hubs.
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1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
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Old 02-09-2024, 05:58 AM
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Please remove the sticker from the crank pulley.
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Old 02-09-2024, 06:43 AM
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Please remove the sticker from the crank pulley.


It came from China…


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Old 02-09-2024, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by clill View Post
Please remove the sticker from the crank pulley.
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PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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Old 02-09-2024, 10:54 AM
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Please remove the sticker from the crank pulley.



Dude!
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Old 02-09-2024, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown353 View Post
Mark, how do you normally run the brake hoses and wheel speed sensor wires to the rear axle for the ABS? Do you drop them all near the center section and run them along the axle like GM routed the brake lines on these cars originally, or you you drop each side down independently near the hubs like many late model cars with IRS do?

Just asking because I'm adding ABS to my car, and trying to decide how best to run things to the rear hubs and calipers. I'm leaning towards dropping both brake hoses and the speed sensor wires above the center section and then running them down the axle tubes to the rear hubs.



The rear brake lines run down the sides outside the frame rail.

The wiring comes off the ABS module as twister pairs. Goes through a bulkhead connector the interior. Those wire join the rear compartment wiring harness that has the tail light, fuel pump…

The rear wheel speed wires (twister pair) pass through to a harness on the rear axle. At the connector we swap from normal wire (twisted pair) to a tougher encapsulation wire that goes the wheel speed sensors.

The OE style encapsulation wiring is hard to find and I had to purchase 1000 feet of it to get some. Nice stuff.

I’ll get a photo soon

Mark


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  #8  
Old 02-10-2024, 09:53 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stielow View Post
The rear brake lines run down the sides outside the frame rail.

The wiring comes off the ABS module as twister pairs. Goes through a bulkhead connector the interior. Those wire join the rear compartment wiring harness that has the tail light, fuel pump…

The rear wheel speed wires (twister pair) pass through to a harness on the rear axle. At the connector we swap from normal wire (twisted pair) to a tougher encapsulation wire that goes the wheel speed sensors.

The OE style encapsulation wiring is hard to find and I had to purchase 1000 feet of it to get some. Nice stuff.

I’ll get a photo soon

Mark


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So you're dropping it at the sides near the hubs like a late model and then running a flexline right to the calipers and the wheel speed sensor wires right to the hub... thanks!

Makes more sense than running everything to the top of the center section and then down along the axle tubes like the 50 year old OEM layout-- especially when I would have to snake the lines and wires over watts link brackets, sway bar brackets, and then worry about maintaining adequate clearance between the hard lines and speed sensor wires to the tailpipes at full suspension compression. Dropping them at the sides keeps them out of the way of all of the rear end brackets and also the hot exhaust.
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1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
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  #9  
Old 02-10-2024, 06:07 AM
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BonzoHansen BonzoHansen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
Very nice hardline work.
no ****, that's great. I have never been able to bend stainless lines well at all.
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  #10  
Old 02-10-2024, 09:55 AM
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no ****, that's great. I have never been able to bend stainless lines well at all.


One more, fuel cross over.

I love the engine bay on this build. Nice mix of old and new.

We are back and forth on paining the LS engine to make is look like a 375 HP 396. Or leave it raw aluminum like a fake ZL1.


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