1970 Coronet Super Bee a.k.a Project Plan Bee

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by SuperB70

Thx Trey,
Build is away ahead, actually there's like two things that are lacking. Diamond to make my pistons (after 3 orders 2 years of waiting) and me posting here.

Also the lack of comments makes me think that here isnt intress of builds like this.. since this is not a collection of parts from those usual companies.

I appreciate what you're doing. Different is good. We have good traffic here but it seems all they do is read, not post. Please don't take that as non-interest.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by SuperB70

Also the lack of comments makes me think that here isnt intress of builds like this.. since this is not a collection of parts from those usual companies.

I agree with Jody that not much posting going on, but as a machinist and car guy, there is definitely interest in what you are doing. I have been wanting to machine and have slowly been engineering a billet intake for my car but serious lack of time gets in the way.

Keep up the awesome work and showing off your skills to us, it is appreciated!

[syborg tt]

I love following this build as you are doing things that most of us can't do. Learning a bunch here that is for sure.

[WSSix]

What others have said applies to me, too. I'm very busy in my life and simply don't have time to be communicative. I much prefer forums over IG and the like so I love seeing content like this.

Thanks

[ScotI]

Originally Posted by WSSix

What others have said applies to me, too. I'm very busy in my life and simply don't have time to be communicative. I much prefer forums over IG and the like so I love seeing content like this.

Thanks

Exactly. IG is fine for just looking @ images but it lacks what Forums are best for.... Information. Details. Discussions. Sharing ideas & knowledge.

[SuperB70]

Originally Posted by ScotI

Exactly. IG is fine for just looking @ images but it lacks what Forums are best for.... Information. Details. Discussions. Sharing ideas & knowledge.

Im there too. Like in many of my posts, I asking for discussion, ideas and feed back..

Somebody may know or notice something I have or going to booger up and dont know it yet..

[SuperB70]

So let continue, now Im going to show you, just you. You have to promise that you don't show this or talk about this to anyone outsider..

This is top secret stuff!!

Well have to confess that don't know if this actually works or not.. one those one off things.. Havent figured it out 100% yet..

AND I didnt come up this. Entirely, saw a post in IG of one drag race Mustang in somewhere NW of US. It had some odd squar tubing thingy bolted between throttle body and the supercharger and it had like legs sticking out on both sides of the supercharger and had blow off valves bolted on the ends..
So I had to contact the owner and ask more info about that. He told me that had come up as how to control the boost of the Kenne Bell-twin screw and best part that it works great.

I told him that I may copy his idea but would build it differently and take the idea even longer.
We have talked a lot since, tossed ideas back and forward..

Went and bought two cheap oriental copies of known blow off valves from evil-bay, just to get started. May buy real ones later.

So I designed and machined a kind of plenium for two blow off valves. But the air they bleed, is collected and circulated back to intake side of the supercharger. Between case and the throttlebodies.. Had to make those flances and tube between blow offs and intake. Also had to machine the body of the by pass to make a sealing flance to it.

Idea is to used as light springs in them, just so that valves are closed at natural state. When engine is running on vacuum (0.1 or more), valves would work as by-pass valves. Vacuum would be connected to " normal port", on top of the membrane.

Fun fact: Did you know that the twin screw is the only real compressor in automotive use that dosent leak (actually compresses air inside of it = compressor)so with out by-pass valve of some kind it tryes to suck it self to "bottle", heats up really bad and may even get damaged by doing so. So it needs some by- passing to survive.

And when engine goes on boost, the boost itself starts to push those 2" valves open and bleed off, back to intake. Loosing boost pressure.
Why back you may ask. Cos air is taken from the "cold" side of then intake after the massive special made intercooler, or intercoolers in this case.
Now the clever part, by controlling with ECU the PWM given dome pressure, I can adjust boost any given time, by traction, by gear, by power level tune or just like overtake button.

The part I havent figured out yet is the pneumatic valve. How to get it to work properly. First it deliveries vacuum on top of the membrane and when the boost comes on it turns and lets the PWM pulse through it but not to the intake where it takes the vacuum. We dont want pressurized air leak that way. Also it has to breaths so the PWM pulse would works fast and accurate.

The plan is to use compressed air as pressure source, car will have air compressor for the suspension coil over air cups. Engine ECU, swedish made Maxxecu PRO can handel the task.

By the way, Lysholm-factory calculated that 4.9L supercharger in my 8.3L engine with 3" upper pulley and my custom ordered 9"ish ATI Superdamber the boost pressure is just 54psi~3.78bars !! thats over x2 too much. Aim is for 1.5 bars max~ 21psi. The 4.9L supercharger is nuts. It puts out wopping just shy of 1m3 (one cubic meter = 100.000L) ~ (26417 gal) of air per minute. (to be exact: 0.98 m3 =98000L=25888gal per minute)

Nowdays there may be smarter option to this, again Im nnot 100% sure but Turbosmart has those electro-macnetic bypass valves of modern torquemanagement vehicles.. they may work in this application as well..

Next I'll do something cool and precise..

[SuperB70]

Well, lets do something else.

as a transmission I'm using 5 speed automatic from Mercedes.
Some will straight think that NAG-1. Close.
Same 5-stronic family but when Nag-1 actually is W5A580 (580Nm of torque rating) mine is W5A900, biggest and baddest of them all.

Used on AMG 65, Maybach 57 & 62 and SLR McLaren super car. This came out of rear ended Maybach at Florida.

I'm controlling it with Danish-made Of gear-controller, shifter out of e46 BWM, paddles of of AMG. More that later date.

Some many remember old picture like from 10 years ago that I posted about mating engine and trans with plywood adapter. That was just to get them hang to chassis when I was building it. Well, time and machines has changed some degree from those days.

At work place I studied how to use our 3D measuring arm, how to get points straight to our tool path program (Surfcam). It tells you the locations of the bolts, center of the crank, the hight difference of the flexplate vs block suface, converter bolt flance vs trans bolting surface. 'You even can get the shape of the block and trans housing if you like. As you can see on the photo I did copy some of the shade.

Took my engine block and trans with me one day and got to work.

Side story:
Social media showed its good side again. Was watching drag week live and saw Canadian team racing with grey twin turbo SRT-10 Ram, trans was out and I could see a orange flex plate bolted at back of the engine. Got me thinking.

Contacted the guy through Instagram and asked about it. He was kind enough to give me the contact info of the shop that makes them in California. Long story short, year later I got a custom SFI-proof flex plate between Viper and my trans.

Just needed to ream just a bit bolt holes bigger for ARP bolts.

Machined locator bolts for the block side, (normal unc-bolts with locator hole drilled on the head) and locator pins for the trans bolt holes. That way the measuring arms measuring pointy pen thing will always be in the center and right depth of every hole.

When design was right, upload the files, sourced material and needed tools to Haas-mill and pressed the green button.

Have to say the feeling was unreal when the adapter plate just slided on the dovels on the block the first time. The trans went in also like it was intended that way. I did machine an test piece, went to back of the cranks trans axle bearing housing w/ pointy head. Put that pointy thing back to trans oil pump "axle" to verified that everything was ok. Used dial-indicator and turned then test piece inside the mains and see are those two centric to each other.

Next the trans will go to get overhauled and upgraded, converter gets to be upgraded as well. keeping it as stock stall but have to fix the lock up problem that all 5-stronic converters have. Lock clutch is riding on just a little bit all the time. It need a kid of plate spring to be put in and all the vein solderd on, not just stamped.

Something else on next post....