69 AMC Javelin Project

[coolwelder62]

Jon,Looking very good.Nice job on that tube bending.Scott

[Jtomas801]

Originally Posted by Bryce

I use an alloy steel SHCS the 3/4 diameter is good to 44,180 pounds in single shear. The reason I used 3/4 was becasue of the rod ends not the bolts. I actually use a 1/2" bolt (19,635, single shear) in the front LCA mounting points. I used chromoly kevlar/teflon lined rod ends good to 28,081 pounds of force in the radial direction.

Okay, so it sounds like its trying to find a rod that will support the load more than the bolt (5/8 or 3/4)


I am trying to learn a little bit of this, so if you see any thing wrong please let me know.

While searching through google, I found the equation for shear strength:

tensile strength pounds/in2 x cross sectional area.

In the case of a -10 an bolt with a tensile strength of 160,000 psi and a cross-sectional area of 0.306640625 in2 at the full diameter

160000 pounds/in2 x 0.306640625 in2 = 49062.5 pounds

If 49062.5 pounds is single shear, you double it to get 98125 double shear, right? That should be the amount of force to shear the bolt?


Thanks,
Jon

[Jtomas801]

Originally Posted by coolwelder62

Jon,Looking very good.Nice job on that tube bending.Scott

Thanks Scott, still trying to get used to the bender. Scott, what do you use to lube up the die and tube while bending? Right now I am using wd40 to lube up the die, but I think I should be using some grease instead. I have a hard time bending the tube by my self with about a 7' lever. I am going to try some grease on the next few tubes and see what happens.

Thanks,
Jon

[coolwelder62]

Originally Posted by Jtomas801

Thanks Scott, still trying to get used to the bender. Scott, what do you use to lube up the die and tube while bending? Right now I am using wd40 to lube up the die, but I think I should be using some grease instead. I have a hard time bending the tube by my self with about a 7' lever. I am going to try some grease on the next few tubes and see what happens.

Thanks,
Jon

Jon,a light grease will work also.If your bender is a mech. type try finding someone my size.Having a buddy that is 6'3" and 280# will solve your bending problems. Scott.

[Jtomas801]

Yeah, being 5' 9" and 130 doesn't cut it with a mech bender, but it keeps the car lighter, lol. I had to use a piece of bar stock to make the handle longer so I could get it to bend but after 2 bends, I had to have my Dad help me out.

Thanks,
Jon

[Bryce]

Originally Posted by Jtomas801

Okay, so it sounds like its trying to find a rod that will support the load more than the bolt (5/8 or 3/4)


I am trying to learn a little bit of this, so if you see any thing wrong please let me know.

While searching through google, I found the equation for shear strength:

tensile strength pounds/in2 x cross sectional area.

In the case of a -10 an bolt with a tensile strength of 160,000 psi and a cross-sectional area of 0.306640625 in2 at the full diameter

160000 pounds/in2 x 0.306640625 in2 = 49062.5 pounds

If 49062.5 pounds is single shear, you double it to get 98125 double shear, right? That should be the amount of force to shear the bolt?


Thanks,
Jon

Your math looks correct! The weak link usually is the rod end not the bolt.

[Jtomas801]

Didn't work on the car as much as I wanted to this weekend, but it was my Dad's birthday Saturday so we took time off the car. But, last week I have been working on the car for an hour or so after work redoing the engine bay bars.

At first I had bought the firewall mounted Tilton pedals, but they interfered with how I wanted the engine bay bars so I sent them back to Summit and ordered the reversed under dash setup with the cool cnc aluminum pedals. This way I could keep the engine bay bracing simple. Well that didn't last long.

A few months ago Asif stopped by my house after getting his engine dyno'd for his AI Javelin and I was telling him about the pedals, he then told me about the trouble he had with mounting the remote reservoirs high enough in the engine compartment and that he had to move them to inside the car. I figured there was some thing that I could figure out.

Well now I started messing around with the pedals again, I found a way to mount the reservoirs on the firewall but I would have been expensive and a pain to do. And because of where the balance bar is located on the reverse mount pedals, it would be very difficult to make any adjustments, as the dash bar would be right on top of the balance bar. So now I am sending these back to get the original firewall mounted pedals that I had bought in the first place.

Asif, you were right!







So to use the firewall mounted pedals, I had to remake the engine bay bars, move them outward on the frame rail side and add an offset to clear where the master cylinders will come through the firewall. Once the engine gets set into place I will make a bar that connects the two down bars together and make some bracing from the shock mounts.

Under the dash, there will be a dash bar that connects the to engine bay bars together and will also be welded to the kick panel area. This will work out a lot better in so many different ways, I am glad I changed them around.

Thanks,
Jon

[coolwelder62]

Look's real good,Can't wait to see this project completed.

[asifnyc]

hey Jon, it's all part of the "fun"

glad to hear you've got a plan now. Can wait to see how it turns out. It'll be what I SHOULD have done. oh well...

[coolwelder62]

Jon how is the javelin coming along.Thurs. I picked up a rust free 71 humpster javelin for my next project.Hope you don't mined if I use some of your idea's when I start building the frame and connectror's.Scott.