Project "Payback"

[mfain]

Ouch -- I work on it every day, but I don't have Greg's tools, so I'm a little slow. Glad you're getting your car sorted the way you want it. I haven't heard you say anything about the earlier loose condition lately. What did you finally do with the rear sway bar?

Pappy

[Vegas69]

I just moved the rear bar up to the front hole. I neutralized the car nicely for the street and road course. Maybe a tick tight in autocross. It's more fun to drive loose. Now I switched tires and need to dial the rear ride height back into spec. I hope the feel I want comes back.

[Vegas69]

Originally Posted by Vegas69

It's about time to put a fork in this one,.

I forgot to knock on wood with this statement. Even though it made no sense to me, I adjusted the master cylinder rod length after the brakes locked up on me and it seemed to solve the issue the rest of the night. The next day I decided to drive it out to our new house and low and behold the brakes locked up as I got to the house! Clearly it was due to different conditions. When I put the new 1" bore master in, it was a different designed piston. I felt there was plenty of slack between the piston and push rod. I guess I was wrong. The problem is, I must angle the rod upwards to put the clevis pin in the pedal arm. I'm guessing it's 1-2 degrees beyond the natural freeplay. So, it's putting a little residual pressure in the lines once things expand. 666hp will not overcome these brakes. The fronts locked up and I had to do a burnout to get in the garage.

Today I moved my shop over to the new house. I now have a 950 sqft main garage and 600sqft shop. I set the shop up the best I could and tore down the master cylinder. I found that the interference fit between the pushrod bevel and master cylinder piston insert was to tight. I ground down the insert .150 and shimmed it to fit after some measurments. Without the insert I only have .025-.030 interference fit which won't make me feel to good sailing it inot turn one at 80mph.


I measured the angle available before depressing the piston and it was only 6 degrees. After making my adjustment it's roughly triple at 18 degrees. I'm estimating I only need 8 degrees to eliminate the problem. I think it's time for a new angle finder.

Only I would scratch up a polished master cylinder. Don't mind big red and the stripper in the back ground.

This picture sucks but it's my new shop. I don't know which camera is in my new office, old house, or new house, or a box. Man it's nice to have nearly a half acre to roam.

[GregWeld]

Hell with the car.... Nice SHED!

EEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAA


I don't understand why you'd have so much angle on the rod... is that what you had to do to get a 6:1 pedal ratio?

Also - most of the push rods I've seen already are ground with a slight taper...

Hey - the bright side!

You know you've bedded the brakes.

You know your brakes work really well

You know the bias is set a little to the front (as it should be)

Your neighbors now KNOW you're some kind of weird azzhole that is just a bit crazy and the ones that hate cars will leave you alone and the car guys in the hood will know you've arrived.

[Vegas69]

Thanks man, I'm excited about my new shop! I'm using the factory manual pedal hole. I don't need the 18 degrees, it's only around 6-8 degrees. The pushrod is actually ground beveled. The insert was just to long and not allowing enough wiggle room for my application. Should have her back on the road today. I just need to find a leg. Still seems to work the best when starting from scratch. I need to buy an air bleeder.

[waynieZ]

Sweet looking shop Todd. It looks like your buddy already settled in and likes it too. I'll keep watching and learning from your thread so I won't be totally lost when I do my brakes. Thanks for posting.

[tones2SS]

Very cool Todd. Congrats on the new home and workspace.
Did you get your brake problem resolved?

[mfain]

Todd,

Nice shop! Ref. your brake issue, I ran into a similar problem with a "custom" pedal assembly in a race car. The pivot point for the rod was well forward on the brake pedal arm, which made the push rod very short. The shorter the rod, the more the angularity change there is as the pedal is pushed in. This guy was actually binding the rod in the back of the MC bore. We built a bracket (bolted to the brake pedal arm) that moved the pivot point aft and then used a longer push rod -- problem solved. In the "for what its worth" category - and probably overkill for most applications - the new Tilton 9000-series pedals are adjustable for pedal ratio and they use special master cylinders that actually pivot on bearings at the front of each MC. This keeps the push rod in perfect alignment with the MC bore centerline throught the travel. A little pricy -- $1300 or so for the pedals and about $350-$400 per MC -- but the ultimate in smooth brake application.

Pappy

[GregWeld]

Todd --

I bought an air driven bleeder a couple years ago -- handiest thing I've purchased in a long dang time...

Since most of my buddies are still working - they're not around when I need them... and I'm not waiting for anybody! LOL

[DFRESH]

Nice shop bro---that must be killer---looking forward to seeing it setup the way you like it---also looking forward to seeing the house---SEMA BBQ this year?

Dude, 3 days and we are on our way up the coast---yeeee haaaa!! (To kinda quote Greg)

Doug