64 Chevelle

[64mali]

Very good info, thank you. I was afraid the springs would come off on a big dip or something. I have to crawl under and measure but I think I am about mid travel, although I will double check. I don't think I will bottom out the shock if I have a good bump stop on the rear end. I don't want to use the stock rubber ones, I was thinking of using the newer GM style progressive foam style stops. Anyone run these?

[64mali]

It's been a while since I have been able to do much to the car. I got out there today and made new roll bar access panels, laid down some Dynamat, and mounted my battery tray. I also welded a bung into the cage and trunk floor near the battery so I could get a good ground the chassis and body. Tomorrow I am hoping to get the new fuse panel hung and battery cable routed.

old access panels custom fabricated by my local cage installer...sarcasm

[64mali]

new access panels and battery bracket

[64mali]

After cleaning things up and getting down some Dynamat.

[64mali]

I still need to rivet down the access panels. I welded 3/8" bungs to the bottom of the battery tray and it's bolted down from underneath. I think it came out pretty clean.

[64mali]

I am shifting my focus to getting the car running. My biggest hold up has been the wiring. We started wiring it a while back and decided the old Painless fuse panel I installed in the late 90's wasn't going to cut it anymore. I opted to go with their newer 28 circuit kit leaving me more room for adding extra amenities. It was a little bit of a set back since we were somewhat far along already but in the end it was a good choice for my build. By me focusing on getting the car running it will certainly motivate me to finish the suspension and brakes once this car is able to start and I can start putting the interior together. It's been too easy to get side tracked when the end seemed so far away. Really all I have left to do is wiring, rear disk brakes, power steering, steering column and wheel, brake master cylinder and rear brake line, finish hooking up the hydraulic clutch, fuel lines, and interior.

old harness


new harness

[64mali]

I am at the point where I need to figure out wiring the T56. I know there are a million posts all over the internet and I've spent countless hours reviewing them but can't find what I need. Can anyone help? I have a Dakota dash and am assuming the VSS will get wired directly to the dash. The reverse light seems straight forward. What about reverse lockout and the skip shift??? I have all the pig tails. Any help or guidance would really be appreciated.

[65_LS1_T56]

Originally Posted by 64mali

I am at the point where I need to figure out wiring the T56. I know there are a million posts all over the internet and I've spent countless hours reviewing them but can't find what I need. Can anyone help? I have a Dakota dash and am assuming the VSS will get wired directly to the dash. The reverse light seems straight forward. What about reverse lockout and the skip shift??? I have all the pig tails. Any help or guidance would really be appreciated.

I wired my reverse lockout to my brake pedal. So clutch it, tap the brakes, slides right into reverse. Works great. The skip shift, you can just delete (no wire I believe). Doing that in a car the trans was born in would throw the light all the time. Yes, the VSS goes right to the DD box. You can calibrate the pulse/mile once you get it running and driving.

[64mali]

Exactly the information i was looking for. Thank you, that helps. By using the brake switch for your reverse lock out do you feel like you have to side step the pedals?

[65_LS1_T56]

Originally Posted by 64mali

Exactly the information i was looking for. Thank you, that helps. By using the brake switch for your reverse lock out do you feel like you have to side step the pedals?

Not sure what you mean side step. Whenever you shift into reverse, you should be at a full stop anyway. So clutch in, tap the brake, engage reverse. Its real simple actually.